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#403971 31/10/16 04:35 PM
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This was written by Win Muehling a Canadian Morgan Owner and Friend.

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MorganKingPinfix 2016-.pdf (156.42 KB, 187 downloads)

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Nice to read an account of adhesive use and no reaming thumbs


Roger
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Are adhesives foolproof, would hate to have a fail at high speed on a public road?


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
Ray #404068 01/11/16 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted By Ray
Are adhesives foolproof, would hate to have a fail at high speed on a public road?


"If the glue failed it is because You did not apply it properly".

Not sure if this apply's to this and Loctite, but something to think about never the less. I would certainly do a lot of research and talking to machinists and mechanics before I used this product for this purpose. I also have problems with the Standard Practice of pressing a 1.25" bronze bush into a 1.23" steel tube. Maybe once, but what about the 2nd, third and forth time. Doesn't the tube stretch. Adhesive (Loctite) maybe a better method. I lack Information/Knowledge on this. But I have used Loctite and when applied like the instructions recommend have had no problem. I do test if I can find a way with out destroying the piece I am working with. I have used green loctite on a piece of king pin. Threaded 1/2" USF. I clamped the king pin in my vice and tried to remove the bolt with a 18" flex bar. I could spin it in the vice but could not remove the bolt. One of the problems I see is that when I must remove the bush, I must remember I used Loctite. Or I may damage my press. Heat must be applied. For some Loctite products lots of heat.

The way the factory makes King Pins and I suspect the way Peter Mulberry makes them is to make the threads on the lathe. The way I do it and the way Win does it is to cut female threads in the bottom and Loctite a stud and use a Nylock nut. If the nut drops off for some reason, the factory and PM King Pin is captured in the bottom plate. If the loctite fails in MY or Win's KP better say Your prayers fast as your going to crash.

Lots to think about. Remember Most of us are Ammatuer Mechanics. Probably one reason that Real Mechanics do not participate on these Websites.


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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By Button

Lots to think about. Remember Most of us are Ammatuer Mechanics. Probably one reason that Real Mechanics do not participate on these Websites.


Not quite true, Button. There a lots of real mechanics on the forum - Simonh, Colin, Chunky, Phil B to name but a few. When they speak, we listen. Carefully.


Tim H.
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Ray #404123 01/11/16 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted By Ray
Are adhesives foolproof, would hate to have a fail at high speed on a public road?

Definitely not fool proof so probably best not to fly in an aeroplane either smile

I do understand that there is a fear of gluing mechanical things together. I lost my fear 40 years ago and have been regularly using engineering adhesives ever since. I’m neither for or against adhesives, they are just another tool in the tool box to be used when appropriate. However retaining the bushes with adhesive does offer advantages in the pursuit of achieving a better engineering solution, at least for me. Personally I’m not a great fan of reaming as a process anyway particularly when you are trying to achieve a precision fit in a bit of bent tube. If the tubes are distorted from welding one would unwittingly over ream to achieve the resultant sliding fit and that’s not ideal. Whereas retaining the pre-bored/seized bushes with a suitable adhesive using the pin to align them would allow a certain amount of bush float during curing, to help negate any axial distortion. Also the pre bored bush surface finish is better controlled compared to using a scratchy old reamer (IMO). The surface finish will effects the bearing life. When it comes to removing the bushes you don’t need a 20 ton press either, just heat to circa 200 deg C with a blowlamp and the Loctite is destroyed.

Each to their own and there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Now if only I had a line borer……

Last edited by Rog; 01/11/16 12:44 PM.

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Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By Button

Lots to think about. Remember Most of us are Ammatuer Mechanics. Probably one reason that Real Mechanics do not participate on these Websites.


Not quite true, Button. There a lots of real mechanics on the forum - Simonh, Colin, Chunky, Phil B to name but a few. When they speak, we listen. Carefully.


Talk Morgan is lucky to have those "Real Mechanics" Sorry I should not have made a "categorical statement". Always an exception it seems.


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I'm becoming quite intrigued by the idea of gluing pb bushes into the stub axles tubes.

I don't honestly see that there's a real risk of adhesive failure (assuming it's been used properly), but in any case it would be a relatively simple exercise to protect against glue failure I would think.

In the top bush, one could press a small ring of bush material (unmachined on the outside, over-bored on the inner) down into the stub axle tube to sit underneath the glued-in bush.

For the bottom bush, a grease retaining seal would do the same job of stopping the bush dropping out of position.


Tim H.
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I've used engineering adhesives to hold all sorts of things together even cutting tips on machine tools and extensions to twist drills!

Besides, isn't the Aero 8 stuck together with some sort of adhesive?

Arwyn

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Originally Posted By Hamwich
I'm becoming quite intrigued by the idea of gluing pb bushes into the stub axles tubes.

I don't honestly see that there's a real risk of adhesive failure (assuming it's been used properly), but in any case it would be a relatively simple exercise to protect against glue failure I would think.

In the top bush, one could press a small ring of bush material (unmachined on the outside, over-bored on the inner) down into the stub axle tube to sit underneath the glued-in bush.

For the bottom bush, a grease retaining seal would do the same job of stopping the bush dropping out of position.


Providing the process was controlled and that’s mainly down to degreasing and cleanliness there would be no issue with PB and steel. No need for secondary measures. If you were specifying it in a critical application one would normally specify a proof load to be applied after curing.


Roger
2011 Plus 4
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