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Talk Morgan Expert
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That is some serious torque!
I need to get a tool to undo mine when needed..


Aero 8 GTN #11

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One reason to avoid centre lock wheels me thinks.


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Tricky Dicky
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Tricky Dicky
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Originally Posted By Volvos60s60
Originally Posted By SimonH
Originally Posted By +8Rich
That is serious torque - I have the Morgan lightweight alloys on my Plus 8 400ftlbs is about right I think which is a big bar at about 3' I think.

They are similar fixing to the Aero I believe.


Aero wheels should be tightened to around 380 lbs/ft
They don't come loose at that. Most of the issues are because people don't torque them up properly, and guess "a big bar at about 3ft....."
I broke a 4 ft 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to loosen these off

The wheel nut is the same as the "lightweight" alloys (a bit of a misnomer as they are actually heavier than the standard alloys). Although on the Aero the wheels are peg drive rather than spline drive as on the +8

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk


380 lbs/ft = 515 Nm.

Torque = Force x Distance, & Force = Mass x Acceleration (using gravity at 9.81 m/s2)

Therefore Torque = M (kg) x A (m/s2) x D (m). Assuming you weigh say 85 Kg, & have a 0.6 m long bar (2 ft), when you stand on it will give a Torque of 85 x 9.81 x 0.6 = 500 Nm. Therefore you need a bar just over 2ft, not a 3 ft bar.

I have a 3/4" drive Draper extending offset wrench, which has 3 length settings, 0.3m, 0.6m & 0.9m. Seems just the job to me but not yet used it in anger


Well a friend of mine welded 2' of 1/2" stainless bar onto the socket having worked out the sums. A photo below, I use this to tighten them up but the second photo showing a previously used wrench I place the tube section over my 1/2" bar to undo the wheels as you can never loosen them with the 2' bar. The only thing you need to be careful of is the bar needs to be drilled and welded with enough offset to clear the bodywork in operation and yet close enough to the socket so that the moving moment is in the right area. That's why we drilled the socket again for the bar.

I wanted something that will fit in the car for the longer journeys - tyre fitting shops turn green when they see centre locks.

In 2 1/2 years I haven't ended up three wheelering like some of the Aeros have so something must be about right.






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1993 Con Green +8 prev





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So how on earth do you change a wheel when you have a puncture ?


Geneva 2016 plus 8' The Green Godess' 4 side exits .


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idea

Use the aerosol can that replaced the spare wheel?


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Just undo it and put the spare on - I always felt uneasy in the Sport with no spare wheel though.

I'm guessing the Aero range are bereft of a spare.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
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1993 Con Green +8 prev





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Originally Posted By +8Rich


I'm guessing the Aero range are bereft of a spare.


Yes....can of goo and a compressor.
All you need.
But not forgetting a Recovery Membership...


Peter,
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No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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Originally Posted By Peter J
Originally Posted By +8Rich


I'm guessing the Aero range are bereft of a spare.


Yes....can of goo and a compressor.
All you need.
But not forgetting a Recovery Membership...


Yes it's the way of most modern motoring really - it's just the oldies like me that have to get use to the idea !

One of our other 2 cars have a smilar arrangement.


2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
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H
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H
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I dont get these numbers. I'm old enough to have owned sports cars when centre lock wire wheels were standard and no way did they get tightened up this much.

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Originally Posted By howard
I dont get these numbers. I'm old enough to have owned sports cars when centre lock wire wheels were standard and no way did they get tightened up this much.


Wire wheels use the Rudge Whitworth method of locking. The hollowed out inner surface of the wheel nut or spinner, actually elastically deforms the nose of the wire wheel centre. The enhances the locking effect over sheer tightening alone.

With the centrelock alloys on both the Trads and the early Aeros the wheel nut the nut doesn't elastically deform particularly and fits up against a taper recess in the wheel, so it needs a honking (technical term) amount of torque to tighten adequately.

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
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