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Joined: Dec 2011
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In order to apply the right press force, it is better to apply a dedicated rotation angle from the contact than a torque. The major part of the applied torque is absorbed by the friction (Kellerman & Klein formula) which depends on surface roughness and lubrification.

The angle method avoids to take into account the friction. This method is generaly used for example to tighten the cylinder head.

At the moment the garage is very cold and I don't have the exact measures of thread pitch,screw diameter,length and I/O diameters of the hub, but a rough estimate of the tightening angle could be around 30° to 40°.

Next time I will fit a Wheel, I have to note the screwing angle.

Have you some datas? If somebody uses the oldtimertools with a torque wrench, it could be useful to know the torque and the related angle.


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Originally Posted By CBY
In order to apply the right press force, it is better to apply a dedicated rotation angle from the contact than a torque. The major part of the applied torque is absorbed by the friction (Kellerman & Klein formula) which depends on surface roughness and lubrification.

The angle method avoids to take into account the friction. This method is generaly used for example to tighten the cylinder head.

At the moment the garage is very cold and I don't have the exact measures of thread pitch,screw diameter,length and I/O diameters of the hub, but a rough estimate of the tightening angle could be around 30° to 40°.

Next time I will fit a Wheel, I have to note the screwing angle.

Have you some datas? If somebody uses the oldtimertools with a torque wrench, it could be useful to know the torque and the related angle.



"Bill

The correct way to tighten a nut is to measure the length of the bolt and stretch it the correct about. This is how we did large bolts ( above 2” ) Engineering would give the amount the stretch would be"

I discussed this with My friend, a Canadian Machinist - retired. Just to add a little wood to the fire.




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Originally Posted By CBY
In order to apply the right press force, it is better to apply a dedicated rotation angle from the contact than a torque. The major part of the applied torque is absorbed by the friction (Kellerman & Klein formula) which depends on surface roughness and lubrification.

The angle method avoids to take into account the friction. This method is generaly used for example to tighten the cylinder head.

At the moment the garage is very cold and I don't have the exact measures of thread pitch,screw diameter,length and I/O diameters of the hub, but a rough estimate of the tightening angle could be around 30° to 40°.

Next time I will fit a Wheel, I have to note the screwing angle.

Have you some datas? If somebody uses the oldtimertools with a torque wrench, it could be useful to know the torque and the related angle.


Bloody Nora! Just whack the thing with a big copper or lead mallet a couple of times.

Job done.


Steve
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Originally Posted By SteveT
Originally Posted By CBY
In order to apply the right press force, it is better to apply a dedicated rotation angle from the contact than a torque. The major part of the applied torque is absorbed by the friction (Kellerman & Klein formula) which depends on surface roughness and lubrification.

The angle method avoids to take into account the friction. This method is generaly used for example to tighten the cylinder head.

At the moment the garage is very cold and I don't have the exact measures of thread pitch,screw diameter,length and I/O diameters of the hub, but a rough estimate of the tightening angle could be around 30° to 40°.

Next time I will fit a Wheel, I have to note the screwing angle.

Have you some datas? If somebody uses the oldtimertools with a torque wrench, it could be useful to know the torque and the related angle.


Bloody Nora! Just whack the thing with a big copper or lead mallet a couple of times.

Job done.


+1


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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By SteveT

Bloody Nora! Just whack the thing with a big copper or lead mallet a couple of times.

Job done.


Absolutely.


Tim H.
1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
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Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By SteveT

Bloody Nora! Just whack the thing with a big copper or lead mallet a couple of times.

Job done.


Absolutely.


Well said young man.
thumbs


Bud
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When I asked the same perennial question and along with the hammer advice someone mentioned 250nm / 184 lb ft which is roughly the same as our Lotus Elan


Cheers John
2011 4/4 - "Elrond"
2007 Elfin C3 Clubman - “Gimli”
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Originally Posted By Budster
Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By SteveT

Bloody Nora! Just whack the thing with a big copper or lead mallet a couple of times.


Job done.

Absolutely.

Well said young man.
thumbs


Me too, and two taps is all, so I understand.
The nut gets tightened further on the road.

Oo-er missus!

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The general accepted figure as used by TR / Aston people is about 300nm.
This sounds a lot, but anything less feels loose when undoing.

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I forget to say that it is two taps off the ground, and two taps on the ground.

These are the instructions from the MWS website:
"Apply the spinner by hand and tighten 3 to 3½ turns; give the spinner a couple of taps with the hammer; lower the wheel to the ground and give the spinner a couple more taps.
As long as the hubs are fitted correctly then the spinners will self-tighten and lock as the car is driving."

I like the simplicity of this approach. Elementary. sherlock

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