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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Forums39
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Most Online1,063 Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 163
L - Learner Plates On
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 163 |
Has anyone taken the front header rail assembly apart? Are there any pitfalls in taking it apart or getting it back together?
2008 Plus 4
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36 |
How far are you stripping down? I had to strip mine down to re-weld the little side brackets. Not that difficult but to do it you need to drill out the rivets on the hood toggle clips and remove the water seal. Bonding the seal back was the worst job. It looks straight forward but it took me a few attempts. Getting the stretch right as you go is tricky. I used Evostik and that grabs. Each time I aborted or got it wrong I had to clean off the glue from the seal and header again. I was as high as a kite and as sick as a dog on the solvent fumes at the end. If you can find an adhesive that gives you some time to play that will really help.
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 163
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OP
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I had trouble with the seal before, although only at the ends through not having it quite aligned properly on fitting. It took a few foes to get it to bond. I forget what glue I used.
I need to get the wooden part off. It has distorted and I feel I can straighten it enough if I can get it off.
2008 Plus 4
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Joined: May 2012
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36 |
Those ends are a nuisance. The more you peel back to clean up for re-bonding the worse they become
One other point is to protect the soft stainless mirror finish on the front before commencing anything. It’s so vulnerable and easy to scratch. And just for the record I masked mine with high temp Mylar tape that stayed in place ok during welding.
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 163
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OP
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That's a good tip thanks. My main concern is that I will have to remove the hood material and I am not sure that I will be able to get it back so that it seals properly and, as the whole exercise is as I think (not proven) that there the distortion of the wood part compromises the seal, that would be enough to make the exercise a waste of time 
2008 Plus 4
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36 |
My recollection is a bit fussy but if you remove the rubber seal it exposes a number of small countersunk screws securing the wooden header to the metal frame fabrication. Then if you remove the screws it all easily separates. If I remember correctly the hood fabric is attached to the wood (bonded I think). I can’t recall any sealing between the wood and frame. It all came apart easily and went back ok. No fiddling with the fabric. As said my memory is fussy but I don’t see in principle why you couldn’t separate and then seal with silicone if your wooden frame had distorted? Adding more screws might pull out the distortion?
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 163
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OP
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Good point. It has formed a number of small arches where the wood has become a bit damp and expanded between the screws so my plan was to clamp it and maybe use some steam to encourage it back to its original shape. As it's just wood screws and glue it shouldn't be too bad.
Thanks
Dave
2008 Plus 4
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27,840 Likes: 764
Member of the Inner Circle
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Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 27,840 Likes: 764 |
Mine split at the weld. I pulled off the seal and unscrewed the rail that holds the hood material. I think mine was plastic not wood.
A third party welded up the mteal header rail for me. No problems since. I replaced the rubber seal but now after a few years the ends are playing up again!!
JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,707 Likes: 36 |
You could be right about the plastic John. That rings a bell now. It might have been a PU moulding. You can just make out the cream colour in the image below. Thought I would just repost these old pics again to show what happened to mine when the nut dropped off and I put it back on too tight. It may just save somebody a lot of hassle. Those three little tack welds were always a bit stingy. Mine are welded all along now and my nuts are backed off and secured with Loctite Regarding the ends playing up. Am I right in the understanding that there is a better water seal used these days? If so can it be retro fitted? Does anybody know?
Roger 2011 Plus 4
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,723 Likes: 2
Talk Morgan Sage
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Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,723 Likes: 2 |
Your advice probably saved me from a lot of hassle Roger, so thank you from me..! I'd tightened my nut after it dropped off, but clearly the sort of tightness that would ensure it would never come off again unless a three foot breaker bar was attached. Having read your post & looked at the photo's, I slackened them off so there was play between the bracket and the rail. I just happened to mention this whilst at the breakfast club at Allon Whites & I got the sort of look that can never be mistaken in any language..clearly one must NEVER tighten this nut too tight..! So thank you.
Steve
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