Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Pete's COMET

If you have the original style compensator a grease nipple can be added to it. The grease does wonders for mine. It is now very civilized.
The new Centa unit needs no grease, as far as I know.

If your car was built before the start of 2014 it might still have the compensator that needs greasing in which case yes it would be a good thing to do regularly with Morris K323 or similar grease but if you have a later car it will have the Centa compensator which doesn't need greasing. An earlier car might have been changed to the Centa by now anyway.
Really looking forward to Grindelwald, far too much real life and work going on at the moment!

Probably not an issue unless you get stuck in hot weather traffic a lot, thrash it mercilessly or push the oil change intervals. The oil gets pretty hot in the X-Wedge so I tend to go with a full synthetic though I don't tend to get the hot weather or the traffic!

I live in Arizona where it gets to 115 F in the summer. Every year we have Arizona bike week here with over 5,000 bikes. Quite a number run the same S & S engines along with the other 4,800 Harley's!

After getting my 2012 I walked down a line of hundreds of big V-twins and asked each what they used as oil--99% said Mobil 1 20/50 V Twin oil and the remainder used Valvoline, Redline, Motul, etc. They recommended changing every 500 miles up to 2,000 miles then every 1,000 miles to 5,000 miles then maybe every 2,500 to 5,000 miles when broken in. Every single one said 100% synthetic is critical to the big twins. I followed their advice. No issues! Oh, and change filter each and every time. No exceptions. Oil and filter is cheap.

just ordered this:

Would have thought it's not beneficial to over lubricate the engine until it's fully bedded in, which may take a while with those big cylinders. Mine is loosening up nicely now at 5000+ miles. Hit the rev limiter the other day although the recently fitted stage 1 kit may have some bearing on that

I was always of the opinion that full synthetic oils are primarily offered to provide long intervals between oil changes, which is probably not relevant to typical S & S engine ownership. As an example our new BMW engined Mini has its very first oil change scheduled at 18,000 miles!

I don't understand what you mean?

New Harleys come with Harley's Syn3 full synthetic oil from the factory, so I guess they think synthetic is a good choice to start with. But I do agree that modern oils are missing zinc and without that as a break in additive, it makes break in take longer. There are break in oils with zinc, in fact I believe that diesel oils still have zinc in them.

As far as synthetic oil versus dino oil, I would go with the synthetic is possible. I do however still run straight 60w in my '76 Harley Shovelhead.

I'm not going to do the research right now, just some "remembered" numbers that could be off a bit, but overall make my point.

Dino oils tend to lose their lubricity in the 200 degree range and if pushing the motor on a VERY hot day, oil temps can easily reach the high 200's, F that is. On the other hand full synthetic oils can keep on lubricating well over the 300 degree mark.

So when in doubt on modern motors, I use synthetic oil.

I also use Liqi-Moly 20/50 in my '09 Harley and find it quiets down the motor a bit, and newer Twin Cam Harleys are a very noisy motor. I've also have great results with Amsoil.

We've been beating this one up for some time now--use only oil that clearly states "V twin" as seen on Mobile One. As long as it says V Twin it has the proper additives for our engines

Quote
"We've been beating this one up for some time now--use only oil that clearly states "V twin" as seen on Mobile One. As long as it says V Twin it has the proper additives for our engines"

Why should a large air cooled V Twin motorcycle engine need any different oil to any other large air cooled motorcycle engine that is not a V Twin

How do we know that the special additives (if any) that supposedly suit our V Twins, and are aparently present in oil marked "V Twin", are not present in oil that does not mention "V Twin" on the can.

The oil certainly does not know the engine is configured as a V Twin.

I am not suggesting that we do not all continue to use oil marked as "V Twin", but is it just a sales ploy to charge more for an identical product?
A full chemical analysis would be needed to answer this question.