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Joined: Jul 2014
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Do you notice any interaction between the noise and the engagement/disengagement of the clutch?

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Originally Posted By Sportster
If you haven't already remove the rear boot liner for a better visualization of everything in the rear from the top.


Good idea....

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Originally Posted By CasaLobo
Do you notice any interaction between the noise and the engagement/disengagement of the clutch?


No, I don't believe there is any correlation between the engagement of the clutch and this noise. It sounds as if something broke loose and is now rattling/clanking around over small bumps. It's a metal to metal sound.

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Originally Posted By polar993
I have about 500 miles on my 2016 M3W. I have been breaking it I slowly since the winter.


Originally Posted By polar993
but I never had this noise until yesterday and it started soon after that initial clanking when I "banged" it into 2nd gear under full acceleration.


I could be flippant here and suggest that the two quotes may have had a bearing on the noises..!!

It's under warranty, get it to a dealer and let them look. If it means a breakdown truck, so be it.


Steve
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Originally Posted By Stringers Best Mate
Originally Posted By polar993
I have about 500 miles on my 2016 M3W. I have been breaking it I slowly since the winter.


Originally Posted By polar993
but I never had this noise until yesterday and it started soon after that initial clanking when I "banged" it into 2nd gear under full acceleration.


I could be flippant here and suggest that the two quotes may have had a bearing on the noises..!!

It's under warranty, get it to a dealer and let them look. If it means a breakdown truck, so be it.


Steve,

No offense taken to your comment.

I admittedly did accelerate hard, and shifted quickly into second under full throttle. I used the word "banged" to describe the shift because the sound that occurred when releasing the clutch sounded as if something broke. I didn't pop the clutch nor was I driving the car in an abusive manner at all. I have a number of expensive vintage cars that I consider to be rather fragile and I drive them responsibly. I was doing the same in the M3W, and would never have expected to break anything with a fast shift into 2nd gear.

I don't mean to come across as defensive...I just felt like an explanation was warranted.

If it needs to be towed to the dealership, it's going to set me back about $300-400! Any other suggestions before I proceed down that route? (I will remove the trunk liner to see if I can notice any damage looking down from the top.)

-Tom

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I have had this problem for about a month now whilst waiting for an appointment at my local dealer (Next Week). I have previously posted on another thread with a link to a video. Whilst I've been waiting I've made another video. This time I jacked up the car and turned the wheel by hand the "clank" appears to occur at the same point in the rotation of the rear wheel, after a number of rotations the point moves slightly forward.
I'm thinking this may be a broken bearing. The belt is free of stones and so are the teeth. I'm rather disappointed now the nice weather has arrived I can't drive it.
Hope this helps to identify your problem
https://identifying.be/sl4M5dr6Eac

Last edited by ArchieWetleg; 14/06/17 01:27 PM.
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I just saw the video on YouTube..maybe it's the bearing..if you try to remove the belt & test it again. So that you can cancel out if it's from the bevel box. It's very annoying I'm sure..nothing to do with the drum shoes?

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Try draining the oil in the Bevel box over a mesh filter- and check for any debris.

It could be a broken part of the Helical Gear??


Neil

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That fuel rollover valve behind the bulkhead can be VERY rattlley too. I tied mine tightly at a 45° angle with electrical ties to quiet it down.


The Original Ken
11,000 miles.

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It's apparently something to do with the brake drum the contents of which appear to have fallen off. After a 16 mile journey to the dealership the noise was a lot worse the drum was red hot.
I'll post the final diagnosis when I have it.

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