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Joined: Jan 2014
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Originally Posted By PaulJ
It also occurred to me that the billet aluminium (aluminum!) Empire bracket would spread the load better, but if it does, it has not save the several chassis which have still cracked in the same place.

This top chassis rail appears to be unsupported, and takes the total load from the top wishbone. Maybe it should be triangulated better than the brace that MMC cobbled up, perhaps a bolt in brace at the front, not the rear? It's odd that it normally appears to be the left hand chassis rail which breaks?


It's a torsional stress fracture- mine went on both sides.

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That figures, so triangulating may not be enough?


Paul
[At last, I have a car I can polish]
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Michael, sorry to hear about your chassis. Strangely (?) My chassis was fine until I added the chassis brace. I've had the same offer regrading the chassis. I'm pleased that Morgan has stepped in and taken responsibility. I've had my crack welded and will replace chassis if it cracks again. Sorry again, I know how much you enjoy to driving your M friend

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I`ve just been browsing some old images on my computer, when i found this. After closer inspection something does indeed not seem right to me.
If you take a look at the second image, which i have highlighted, it may all become clear.

With these two uprights positioned as they are, are all the stress`s being put into the weld and not the frame?
Surely the point of the upright brace is to distribute the forces throughout the chassis.

Would it be possible to move these uprights in an inch closer together and reduce the stress on the frame and thus reduce the risk of breakages around this point. Is there room to move them closer to the gearbox?

Not being a structural engineer, and just being an observation. Any thoughts on this?

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After talking to my dealer, he confirmed that some early cars had bad welding. That is, non filleted welds. Some cars had butt welded joints, leading to cracks.

All newer cars, and in particular, all cars from 2017 should have quality welds on their cars.

Just one explanation for cracked and bent chassis.

John.

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Doesn't all dealers say "the new ones don't do that."

Last edited by Timothy; 28/08/17 09:27 PM.

1998 +8
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2013 M3W
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There one is thrashed at regular intervals, and no cracks in the chassis.
So i have to believe them.
John.

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Haven't been on for a while, so Hi to everyone!
Sorry to add to the reports of a cracked chassis. My early car (Oct 12) seemed fine, but after the extra brace was added about 800 miles ago the chassis has now cracked in the usual place and the car is undriveable.
Only spotted it on Sunday after thinking the car felt a tiny bit looser than usual, so it may have been developing for a while. Only doing 500 miles a year now as have lost confidence in anything other than shortish runs.
On the plus side, original bevel box going strong, original voltage bits, original compensator, clutch etc. fine. Just rear sprocket replaced and chassis / wishbone upgrades done. I don't have the cooling additions either so may put that right now.
I know good old Brands Hatch Morgan will put me right and may do some other upgrades at the same time as the chassis is replaced.
Any recommendations?

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wiscos, I too have a cracked frame and have had it welded. My crack appeared about a hundred miles after the triangular "upgrade" was installed. When I discovered the crack I noticed the car pulling to the right. This got progressively worse after welding and I decided to measure the caster angle. I found out the angle on the left is 8 degrees and on the right is 2 degrees (the cracked side). The car is pulling to that side--the crack, the repair? Fortunately I have the Empire kit on the car and the upper A frame has adjustable caster. Currently I have the suspension all torn apart on the right so I can adjust it. I'll report back if the adjustment solves the problem. Why didn't Morgan give us adjustable suspensiion???

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How does one "update" their account?

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