Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Parking Brake Biopsy - Help! (New Revelation)

I thought it was at the handle but upon further examination I can hear the cable moving inside the rear wheel/brake drum area. )-:

Anyone else have this park brake problem? This is a 2016 and my Dealer is not close enough for what I am hoping is a minor fix.

Maybe I will try this fix as soon as I wear out the rear tire. In the meantime I will ask for wheel chocks for Christmas.

Pull the lower part of the back seats from the bottom, if I remember correctly

maybe if you have bad h/brake efficiency! could have leaking rear slave cylinder ,contaminated rear shoe's!!!

Unless I missed something, you didn't mention your issues with the park brake.

What's the problem?

If the cable is moving, the only way to see what's going on is to remove the rear wheel and brake assembly. Unlike disc calipers, the drum brakes are all hidden away.

Good luck with your biopsy.

The problem is the parking brake is inoperative . The handle moves freely and feels like it is unattached to the brake shoes. At first I thought it became disconnected at the handle assembly in the console. Upon further inspection I can hear the cable moving at the rear wheel.

Not sure if this helps Ken.



Unlikely I know but if the cable outer is too slack, it may be that despite inner moving it's not enough to operate (what assume is) the cam at bottom of brake drum to expand shoes. Diagram for brake drum lacks detail to be sure.

Here's some photos of the inside of the rear drum; DropBox Link

I'll take a guess that the cable has come adrift from the actuating lever inside the drum. Not really anything you can do about it without taking the wheel out which is a bit of a adventure the first time you do it and remains a bit of a slog each time after that.

Here's another Dropbox link; Rear Wheel Removal and Fitting

Hopefully these links just work, if not I'll sort something out!

The e-brake cable snaps in in bracket behind the rear shoe. I changed my rear brakes two weeks ago. I can second RedThree's comments on it being an adventure.

I had various issues, but my e-brake was showing the same symptoms your was, and it was still connected. I believe the brakes were wore to a point that it wouldn't engage properly, or the automatic adjuster was malfunctioning. In fact, my suspicion was that the adjuster had been messing up for a while, and I had prematurely wore my brakes.

Depending on how many miles you have on it, I would suggest if you are going to tear that rear wheel out, go ahead and change the brakes/wheel cylinder while you are at it. You don't want to have to tear it out again in 1000 miles. I had 10K miles on mine and decided to change the rear tire as well.

If you do change your rear wheel brake cylinder, make sure you get the correct part. They mentioned that they use the same part on +8 brakes, however there is a (right) and a (left) side cylinder, as there is a roll pin used for alignment which is on opposite sides of the brake cylinders for the 4 wheeler. Not sure which one is the correct for the 3-wheeler, but I know I got the wrong one first.

Same here. My handbrake went slack a couple of weeks ago. Needless to say, the fix took three minutes but it required several hours of prep: it was only an E Clip that had come off, but we had to remove the rear wheel and bleed the brake. The cable is now more secure than the original and I am grateful that I have a classic car restoration specialist on my doorstep.

Thanks for all of the info, diagrams and links! My handbrake worked perfectly and then it went slack as in CBM's description- it sounds like the clip came off rather than any wear of the shoes or a bad wheel cylinder.

I am leaving it in gear and not parking on any steep grades at the moment. Accidentally only once tried starting it whilst it was in gear.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!