Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Re: Zetec-replacing camshafts

Need some advice

I have purchased a set of Zent cams ‘Fast Road’ for the Zetec silvertop <05/98 which has the Hydraulic tappets. The Haynes Manual states on refitting “Note: if new hydraulic tappets are being fitted, they must be charged with clean engine oil before installation” I might be stupid but I do not understand how this is achieved?

This is my first attempt at changing the cams and I have spent the last week removing the rocker cover, spark plugs, timing belt covers etc. I fitted the dial gauge and after some head scratching I’m confident that I have figured out the timing and what’s involved in the procedure. The car has now been sitting in the garage for about three weeks since the last engine start and it has occurred to me that the oil may have drained out of the oil galleries and the tappets. The manual states that the engine should be primed before starting but I can’t find any sensible reference on how this is done on a Zetec?

David 2001 4/4 4 seater.

Most professional engine builders use a special 'cam lube' which is designed to cling to the wear surfaces whilst oil pressure builds on the first start-up

Try Burton Power a renowned Ford tuning engine part supplier in Essex

I used Graphogen graphite paste on my engine builds, won't use anything else.

I'd take priming an engine to mean disabling the ignition system, removing the spark plugs and spinning the engine over until either the oil pressure light goes out or the oil pressure gauge indicates working pressure.

After fitting your new cams, pull the engine round on a spanner for a few turns, just to make sure its alls well with the timing. If it goes tight at any point, don't try to force it round!

Arwyn

When I replaced the cam shaft on my CVH engine, I used cam lube, but previously I had always used Graphogen when rebuilding engines. Both worked very well.

I agree with Arwyn about priming the engine, and definitely do a test with a spanner first as he describes.

Spot on advice especially Arwyn and spanner check and then spin her up with plugs out until the oil pressure light goes out or reading on the gauge. Normally to 'prime' hydraulic followers I pop them in a bath of oil (cut the bottom off a plastic 5ltr container) the day before and let them soak, rattle them round a few times and they will self fill.

On that note, maybe old school practice but if I am fitting a new cam I will never use the old followers, they wear together and although they are mounted off centre so they turn (note radial ring markings) they should be replaced so no worry about mixing the order up in the oil bath. If a customer wants to save money and re-use the old ones I decline the job unless they are totally unobtainable then different rules apply of course.

Have fun nothing like the buzz when a rebuilt engine fires for the first time and it doesn't matter how many you have built like the pro's on here will tell you as well.

+1

An even bigger buzz when you realise you just drove the rebuilt engine for more than 10 minutes without looking at either the oil pressure or temperature gauges.

Or sniffing the breeze to figure out whether the oil smells are just burning off the exhaust or a symptom of something horrible gone wrong...

Thanks all

I have the cam lube from Burton Power ready and now have the hydraulic followers, charged as Haynes would say sitting in a oil bath.

Hopefully will be getting a good "Buzz" later in the week when I get time to fit them.

David 2001 4/4 4 seater.