Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) 2011 4/4 - susp & driveshaft advice needed please

My 2011 has had the occasional problem with longish dips in the road that let the back of the car bottom out . I shortened all the seat mounting bolts etc and painted the tips of every bolt underneath Orange so I could see what touched the road and made the scraping sound in future, none touch anymore but I still got a scraping sound when it bottoms out.
I have found the source of of the scraping sound. The trans tunnel at the rear has a heavy cast alloy lining with witness marks on the crest where the drive shaft has spun on it as the suspension decks out (see photos showing arrowed scrape on tunnel and marks on the shaft) , in fact it’s ground the alloy tunnel down a lot where it touches. My leaves look pretty flat too (see photo)and have blocks about 20mm thick between the Axle tube and the leaves (arrowed in same photo), are these blocks normal as I have not seen them in other peoples photos? Pics of my problem are attached. This will cost a lot to fix as I will need ferry my car across to the mainland and get Morgan Australia to import and fit new leaf springs for me and ferry the car back to Tasmania when it’s done (ferry alone is about $900.00) , so I need to get this right first time. it’s a 2011 4/4 with the spare wheel on the back, what spring pack will be best for me? I don’t want a hard as nails ride as we just tour in it, but I want no more bottoming out either.

Oh Dear Uther, the old sagging springs saga once again. What a story this has been in Australia and around the world for that matter. I have the same year and model and suffered the same problems as did many others. Go through the extensive posts on this site on the issue as a start (BTW,the lowering blocks are standard on our model cars)

Sounds like you will be up for new springs. I am happy to provide detail of my experience if you require but read the DaveW post on spring replacement first up.

GoMog has a write up on why you have the blocks

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/LoweringBlocks.html

I think on here people have covered the propshaft hitting the tunnel before.

Thanks for your reply, I was hoping someone down here would have had this fixed before. I have read Daves post before and again just now (which makes me think I want the dealer to fix it 😄) I would love to be able to give you a call and discuss it with you at a time convenient to you if that’s OK ?

Thanks for your reply John, did that search, it’s a relief to know that others have see it touch the trams tunnel before, I was quite worried. Thanks also for that GoMog link, it almost seeme to me that if I ditch those blocks and fit shorter UBolts my problem would be solved, but I am sure i have missed something and it’s not going to be that easy 😄

Sadly John I doubt it. Some one on here will know.

The blocks are not only a spacer but also a location device. IIRC, a stud in the spring locates in a hole in the block which in turn locates on the axle.

The only fix is new springs - in the UK Peter Mulberry (mulfab) 4 seater, 4 leaf rear springs are the answer. Worth a conversation with your dealer before committing - there may be a local solution that is easier for you to get. You definitely do not want MMC supplied springs as, depending on the age of the stock, you could easily be getting the same thing as you already have.

It took me two days to swap mine. A dealer might do it in 8 hours with their better kit and more experience of doing the job.

This is the Mulfab rear axle alignment kit.

I am also having problems with drive line interference with the rear tunnel on My +8 Bitsa. I have a pair of MULFAB Anti Tramp Bars that I hope cures this problem by preventing the rear axle from twisting.

Dial away my friend. I will PM details