Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Broken clutch pedal return spring

So I take it is the same process for a broken brake pedal return spring? Would the brake function correctly without the spring as per the clutch?

Thanks
Will

Similar but easier. If you look at my original 2nd photo you can see that the brake spring doesn’t need to be ‘wound on’ so a much easier job.

Seems to me that the brake pedal return spring is overly stiff. Not quite sure why we would want the pedal to be even harder to push? My '91 plus 8 has no clutch pedal spring on it from new. Also no provision to grease the bushings on the shaft. I turned a new stainless shaft and polished the bushings. It seems to me that the spring puts serious pressure on the MC to prevent it from pulling the pedal
Back. With the MC about of the car to be real Webex the pedal is forced by the spring onto the floorboards. Has anyone deleted the spring? Cut off some windings to lower the pressure?

"Cut off some windings to lower the pressure"... cut_off will increase the pressure.

To resurrect this thread. Due
[img][img]http://tm-img.com/images/2024/05/24/IMG_3342.jpeg[/img][/img] Config as per 2006 parts book.
Slack off or remove the centre lock bolts of left & right mounting block, the right hand one is a little awkward due the brake light switch cables, but a loose socket does fit (7/16 af)
Release the brake pedal return spring & move it sideways to left to ensure no tension.
Remove clutch actuator cotter pin & clevis pin.
On the right hand side lift up side carpet. & reach around to put your finger int the X tube & pull out all the way to the side wall. If it won't move try some plus gas or similar penetrating oil down the empty lock bolt holes.
[img][img]http://tm-img.com/images/2024/05/24/IMG_3375.jpeg[/img][/img]
You can now remove the clutch pedal assembly.
[img][img]http://tm-img.com/images/2024/05/24/IMG_3378.jpeg[/img][/img] Note the released brake spring to the right.
Cut off old Brocken spring from the clutch pedal assembly noting how it was positioned. I made up a dummy with a coat hanger to practice with as per Rog's suggestion. Prise open you new spring and thread it onto the pedal assembly like putting a key on a key ring. hence the practice with the dummy, so you get it the right way round. Tips reasonable size screw driver to splay the 1st coil just enough to place over the crank. I used some ptfe spray to make rotating the spring easier. Make sure the first coil is hard up against the drum section to get it started. Use a rock solid vice to hold the pedal assembly. took less than 10 mins.
[img][img]http://tm-img.com/images/2024/05/24/IMG_3379.jpeg[/img][/img]
Place assembly back in position , ensuring the spring is loose not clipped on. The small end goes onto a metal ridge just under the carpet of the floor forward.. I cleaned & re-greased just about everything. Quite easy to move the X-tube back & forth, to enable this.
push the x-Tube back into position placing the two large washers in position as you do. As they were well greased they stayed in position quite easily to thread the tube back into position. Replace the lock bolts. then position the brake spring back to its position. re clip the new clutch spring into its position.
[img][img]http://tm-img.com/images/2024/05/24/IMG_3386.jpeg[/img][/img]
Then jiggle it about to get it better aligned than shown in the picture. A long screw driver helps getting both brake & clutch springs nicely set.
Put the clevis pin & washers & cotter pin back on the crank linking the clutch master cylinder.
Two things are difficult.
Would you believe it took me an hour to get the cotter pin bent suitably as I just could not get any leverage on it. Getting yourself in & out of the footwell. I think I've cracked a rib. well bruised one anyway. oh & it is messy, due the old graphite grease.

I have left the pictures as links as they are full sized so you can see them easily.

Thankfully the 3.7 Roadster and maybe others don't need a pedal mounted clutch return spring (integral m/cyl spring more than adequate) although early models until at least 2014 were fitted with them leaving very heavy clutch action. Secondly new springs are best fitted with pedal assembly removed, clevis connections detached and pedals flat. This also gives you the opportunity for fitting missing pedal thrust washers (I used phosphor bronze) and clevis pin washers if necessary.



Even then there is some tension in spring(s) where the forward facing tang rests on footwell ridge, but with care clamp bolts can be re-fitted. Note I could see no reason why bolts were facing in opposite directions ex factory so fitted both sides with bolt heads upwards. Once secure clevis forks can be re-attached to pedals with pins, then spring pedal tangs can be pushed forward and hooked over pedal(s) using screwdriver.