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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 165
L - Learner Plates On
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How do I get the seat back unbolted? I am investigating a rattle coming from behind the drivers seat. I don't have to be moving as it it more related to a low engine rpm vibration. Any help would be appreciated!

2016 M3W

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Open boot, remove plastic tray. There are 2 or 4 bolts on the back of the rear bulkhead. They hold the upper seat cushion in place. Remove them and with a bit of fiddling the back bottom cushion can be convinced to leave and then the upper back can be removed.

Of course just removing the plastic tray may reveal what's loose back there and may have nothing to do with the bulkhead.

Everything rattles and vibrates in this car. Have Loktite in hand.


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Rattle is possibly the fuel inversion cut-off valve. This is located to the upper left of the fuel filter and appears to include a ball bearing which does, err, rattle. Wrap it in foam with some tie-wraps and isolate it by placing a felt pad (or similar) between its mounting bracket and the wooden frame. You probably won't stop it entirely but hopefully it will become less noticable!

Last edited by Bunny; 01/09/18 06:31 AM.

Andy
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If you find out what it is do please let us all know. Best suggestion so far is a couple of welding rods left inside a chassis tube but I am sceptical!


2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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Dreiradschubser
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I have the same rattle as Andy, I am pretty sure he has right


4 aircooled cylinders, 7 tires, not waterproof: my m3w Bluebelle (2013) and my 2CV Gundel (1990)
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Same rattle on my M3W.
Slight improvement after "foaming" the valve.


Hannes
once: Green M3W; 2013
now: Red 4/4 Sport; 2011
and some practical cars for use in real life
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I had this. If you look the black part of the bracket where it’s sfrewed on overhangs the wood and as a result rubs on the black boot cover. I trimmed the bracket so it sits inside the width of the wood and then surrounded the value in foam. Haven’t heard a thing from it since then! Worth a try

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!!SOLVED!! - Well identified anyway.

In the end, wrapping foam around the roll-over valve made no difference to the annoying rattle. What it has turned out to be is poor location of the n/s roll hoop within the body cutouts. This means that the large rubber trim grommet has been pinched and worn away, leaving a metal to metal contact between the steel roll hoop and the alloy body. Thus when the body moves w.r.t. the chassis there is a loud rattle/resonating type sound.



Identifying the problem is one thing but I'm now not sure how to fix it.

My rather crude measuring suggests that the hole on that side is slightly closer to the centre line than the o/s one which would account for the problem. (This is a 2014 car by the way. ) If the roll hoop can’t be adjusted, then I guess the hole could be elongated a couple of mm?

Does anyone have any experience of this?


Andy
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Exactly the same with mine (late 2016), but it seems as though it is coming from the base of the RH roll hoop. It is most evident when idling/pulling away. Sounds like rattling a spoon in a thin plastic cup.

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My car has just been shunted sideways by a nice lady in a 4x4 who “didn’t see me” so that whole cockpit surround has to be removed. I’ll let you know what I find under there when it is off.


2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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