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Joined: Apr 2010
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Just not to be understood wrong - I have used WD-40 (or whatever similar) to facilitate the penetration process, not as a lubing agents. It also was an important moment to analyse where from the squeaking comes from. To locate the squeaking source is sometimes quite difficult. I have disassembled several times the front covers of the leaf spring mountings, as it sounded like a rubber squeaking. Now at least I know it is definitively coming from the between the leafs. I have applied now "Fluid film", which stays "live" and does not solidify as chain spray does and has not bad lubricating abilities. It is also very resistant against water, as it was originally developed for floating ballast tanks of ships.

In the old times, I remember the bikers did not relay just on the chain spray (they always said it stays just on the surface). They "cooked" their chains in hot oil once a year before the saison. Nowadays, the bike chains have on each member O-Rings, so the chain lube does not have any chance to get in. In fact, it protects the chain from outer wear only. So, depending on the individual car and its squeaking character and source, probably chain spray works in the most cases, but not always. Those cases needs an individual solution, maybe a combination of different treatments.

Of course, definitely the best solution is to pack the leaf springs as DaveW described. However, with a lot of difficult work.

Peter

Last edited by peterd; 13/10/18 10:51 AM.
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if you use fork lift truck chain spray it is a different formula in which the chain spray actually soakes/adheres to the surface of the metal. (sounds like witchcraft ).

David Byrne

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Yes it's only really worth doing on a spring change. When I changed the springs on Bumble, I loosened the centre bolt and left them overnight with gear oil in all the gaps.

Then when wrapped in Denso tape, that's about the best you can do for longevity.


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Originally Posted By B3MOG
if you use fork lift truck chain spray it is a different formula in which the chain spray actually soakes/adheres to the surface of the metal. (sounds like witchcraft ).

David Byrne


That’s the one I use David


Craig Jezz


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The best solution may be to spray in ordinary Diesel oil, it seams to get And stick to everything. I have noticed that scaffolding firms store their unused couplings ln buckets of it.


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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Common recycling used of filtered old engine oil mix it with some petrol spray that on the petrol will evaporate leaving the oil in place. Common on US car forums as advice.


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Still also remember that whatever oil (diesel, hydraulic etc.) was used, the old practitioners used to add graphite, namely to avoid squeaking. They said, even if you abandon the maintenance intervals and the leafs get almost dry, the graphite avoids squeaking for some longer time.

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Originally Posted By milligoon
Common recycling used of filtered old engine oil mix it with some petrol spray that on the petrol will evaporate leaving the oil in place. Common on US car forums as advice.
. That sounds a good cheap idea.


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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I use Waxoyl, cheap, has good creeping characteristics, lasts for ages and works well....


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Originally Posted By Ray
Originally Posted By milligoon
Common recycling used of filtered old engine oil mix it with some petrol spray that on the petrol will evaporate leaving the oil in place. Common on US car forums as advice.
. That sounds a good cheap idea.


But be careful of the explosion risk of a mist of petrol. I hope / guess that is done outside.


JohnV6
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