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Joined: Mar 2016
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My 2000 reg 4/4 four seater has working retraction on the belts, but won’t ‘let go’ to extend them when in service. They need to be unbuckled, retracted and then pulled out again from the beginning. Particularly bad on the passenger side, so poor Cecily can virtually end up garrotted by the belt as it keeps retracting.
Any suggestions?

Tim

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Seat belts are problematic on a 4 seater
Had all sorts of troubles on my last 2000 4/4 4 seater Tim
The biggest problem I have now which I also had on the 4/4 is that the tonneau folded behind the seats touches the belt and because the tension is so weak, it stops the belt retracting which when you lean forward for the handbrake, the belt goes all slack and wouldn’t save a sausage in an accident


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Stuart,
It is irritating that seatbelts get stuck.
On a 2 seater the tonneau cover needs to be folded in specific way, to prevent interference with the seat belt. I am sure ther are posts with pictures on how to do this. Can this be adapted for the 4 str, I wonder, or is the ditance too large? Perhaps a trick with a rod that supports the tonneau?
Good Luck,
Bert


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Originally Posted By BertR
Stuart,
It is irritating that seatbelts get stuck.
On a 2 seater the tonneau cover needs to be folded in specific way, to prevent interference with the seat belt. I am sure ther are posts with pictures on how to do this. Can this be adapted for the 4 str, I wonder, or is the ditance too large? Perhaps a trick with a rod that supports the tonneau?
Good Luck,
Bert


Yes good point - I think I’ll conduct a few experimental folding techniques to see if what I can do


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Interesting problems: ours is actually that the seat belt retract is too effective in service and won’t let go.

With regards to tonneau covers (sorry for thread drift), the original owner of the car had made a bespoke fancy cover with bits of spacer wood that went over the side edges (his drawings for the trimmers are in the car’s paperwork). This was in Everflex, but the subsequent new mohair roof was probably more bulky than the original and there was no way that either the previous owner or I was able to get it on. I also resent carrying a load of extra stuff in the car when it already has little stowage space, whilst it would be nice to be able to cover the back seats and ‘loose’ stuff behind a cover incorporating the roof material.

There are some residudal press stud fittings along the side at the top of the bodywork behind the doors, which gave rise to a cunning plan. So I fitted some mating press studs to the inner skin of the roof mohair sides, with the intention of seeing if the roof could act as partial tonneau for the back seats (folded down). It sort of works, with the easy-up hood bar rolled up behind the front seats, but is not supported. These poppers are subsequently not strong enough to take the tension of the roof fabric. I therefore have on order some button lift fasteners to replace them. Assuming that these hold the roof material OK, then I have a further cunning plan to support the anterior part of the rolled up roof and make it look reasonably neat. It might also serve to reduce neck drafts.

Watch this space....

Tim

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Originally Posted By Jads
This is how I have just fixed both of my weak retracting seat belts. Remove just the reel from the chassis and sit with it on your lap in the car. Because reels differ, you need to identify which end cap work on. Press each of the plastic end caps to your ear in turn, and listen for the one that 'ratchets' when your pull the belt out and back. You DON'T touch this one.
The other cap should have 3 plastic pins which retain quartered plastic fixings which hold the cap onto the metal frame. Carefully push the pin partially back to release the quartered fixing and allow the cap to be prised from the frame. BE VERY CAREFUL TO ONLY JUST RELEASE THE CAP, if you let it go, the recoil spring could fly out ! Please watch youtube - 'Rewinding a Seat Belt Return Spring and What NOT To Do' !!
Now, VERY carefully and maintaining a constant pressure motion, turn the cap anti-clockwise (in my case 3 turns) and pop the cap back on. Push the pins back in to secure. It's quite simple with care and patience. That worked for me, but if the retract is still weak, I imagine a few more turn might work ?
Disclaimer :- YOU ARE WORKING ON SAFETY EQUIPMENT. I am happy with my work, but I CANNOT BE RESPONABLE FOR YOU ATTEMPTING THE ABOVE FIX.

Having saggy seat belts on my 2011 plus 4, I felt motivated after reading this to have a go! Fat chance! I recall from a factory visit seeing the reels mounted on the woodwork, prior to panelwork. Removing the spare wheel, I can see right up in the corners, that the reels sit in a steel cradle. Due to positioning of woodscrews, the cradle would be impossible to remove without removing the body panels! Possibly, the reel could be removed if it is only held by the single nut and bolt that I can see but barely touch with a finger tip. The nut is even recessed into the wooden crossmember to make it more difficult. It might be about 17 mm or so, but there is no room to get a spanner or socket to even try.
Yet another example of “fine Morgan craftsmanship and design”.
Has anyone had a go at this and succeeded?
I think it does not bode well for any owner of models built in this era. You might put up with sloppy belts, but break a recoil spring or even having to replace a frayed belt for the MOT, might mean serious bodywork disturbance. I despair!


Doug
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Yes, i have , its a bit awkward but can be done i had 2 refurbd seat belts from fdts and fitted them myself. I'm begining to think that the belt reeling mechanisms are located in the in correct orientation in order for the ratchet mechanism within the ratchet in to operate correctly.

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Very grateful for all the advice. I actually think the problem may stem from the angle at which the reel is mounted and i am looking at maybe a retrofit of the newer system where the belt comes from the rear shelf area.

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