Talk Morgan Forums Community The Malvern Arms Ceramic Coating New Vehicle..

When most people including me talk of swirl marks, they are just talking of very small scratches in the paint which only look like they are in swirl patterns because they are seen as they radiate around a bright spot light

It’s the bright light that catches the edges of the scratches and makes them appear to be in a swirl pattern but of course they aren’t

It’s a common misnomer that these are a result of washing or polishing in circular patterns

As Dean says real swirl patterns are only caused by rotary polishers when used incorrectly and allowed to stand still and either burn the paint or abrade in a circular fashion

To avoid putting scratches in paintwork, it is important to be absolutely maticulous in getting dust and grit off the paint and off any cloth or sponge prior to applying any pressure of any kind during the cleaning process

The main aids to this are

Running water (not too much pressure)
Lots of carefully folded and properly cleaned and dry microfibre cloths which use static to lift dust
Grid guards in buckets to prevent grit getting on cleaning mits
Plenty of clean water if using buckets

You can buy these coatings for £25 as Dean suggests and they are very simple to apply. The cost comes from the man hours required to prepare the car prior to application.
In my opinion, save the money and do it yourself.

It was £300 for our VWs. I got it for "free".
It seems to help if the car is left unloved outside.

Thanks chaps. Plenty to think about, then..

Some erudite Googling points to having self healing Paint Protection Film (PPF) to cover high impact areas such as front bumper, lower valance, bonnet etc plus painted wing mirror backs, on top of which can be added a ceramic coating.

As I understand it, ceramic coating isn't to stop impact hits but to add an ease of washing. It's (supposedly) far easier to achieve a high gloss, just waxed look, with just a wash and rinse, plus a dry, which is ultimately what I'm after given the fact the new wheels are a VW T6 Transporter..!

It would also fit with the Brooklands, because I'm looking to get the bonnet/cowl covered in clear PPF to extend the driving season a little..

So Dean Royal and all you experts, two Qs. Is a original factory ceramic coating as Mercedes uses it different, better, longer lasting than an aftermarket treatment, or is it a different approach at all? I read some years back, that their clear lacquer itself is based on a ceramic formula, so it is not an additional add on?

And secondly, if you use an aftermarked solution (or let do it) and given that all the work and the product is free of failure...is it a visible change after the treatment?
And if so would you say, it is a positive or a negative change?

E.g. Because in my view, many water-soluble paints already show an ugly greasy shine anyway, which is more dominant than beautiful paint particles, especially with dark paints. Even if the latest paintings seem better to me.
(For me cars made of aluminium (the sheets) are the exception, there paint simply looks better anyway.)

So would you recommend a ceramic treatment for a Trad Mog? (of course only a well made one, e.g. from the detailer) with a dark colour? How will the presentation change? Does it still has „deep“ as a good waxing can give?

I’ve had various paint “protection” concoctions on my cars for years....I always try to get it as a deal breaker rather than pay for it....although you really are paying for it! They are great initially with the water nicely beading off the surface but in my experience the coatings last a couple of years at the most. They don’t stop micro scratches when washing the car.

Mind you I’m probably not the best person to advise about looking after cars....I’ve not washed the X3 for two months 🙄.

I would not allow the dealer to do it - as others have said get a decent detailer to do it. The actual stuff is quite cheap.

For info I bought a ceramic coating kit from china ( very cheap )and have used it to great effect to give a "gloss" finish to a set of Mini alloy wheels that were a less than shiny satin finish from new. Results are good and seem to be standing the test of time. I had a bit dribble out of the bottle into the box it came in and the resulting pool of hardened material is indeed very hard and won't wash off.


Stuff goes on and needs to stay dry for a good few hours to be effective.


Is it worth £700? Only if its applied properly. Get it applied better and for less by using a decent detailer. Is it needed? - that depends on how you are prepared to care for the car - decent 2 bucket wash and rinses, done often, with decent products would work just as well. Can't do much harm either way.

As outlined above.

1. That's a sales-rep and a dealer being greedy.
2. A good detailer will do it for a lot less. (£300 if brand new and not driven to reduce prep time)
3. It protects paint a lot better and should be good for 2 years depending on brand.
4. I have the PPFilm on the front of both Mogs and it has worked very well. Some question over the running boards and foot scrub marks? I would do it again.
5. The AUdi dealer I bought from used a local specialist but did add a little value by delivering the car directly to them on a covered truck still in it's bubble covers to reduce the prep.

Heinz in the UK MB don't do a factory option and it is left to the dealers. Its all part of the modern world of "value add".

Car paint protection, tyre insurance, payment protection (we know where that went last time) after market insurance warranty extensions. It goes on forever.

Does that work on paint then?


Miss the old one?

From what I’ve seen from two Morgans that have had ceramic coating done professionally

The shine isn’t quite as glossy as the very best show waxes put on properly in my opinion but I’m sure it will be consistently good and last for a much longer time