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Joined: Apr 2017
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Ah, I thought the king pin inclination was 2 degrees which is what it says in the owners manual. Castor angle 4 degrees.

I should measure the KPI.

BTW does any one know if we can legally use the type of rod ends Button is referring to ( I call them Rose Joints ) in the UK on road cars.

It would make for a great way to play with bump steer settings.

Last edited by IvorMog; 22/11/18 10:18 AM.

Bob

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Originally Posted By IvorMog
Ah, I thought the king pin inclination was 2 degrees which is what it says in the owners manual. Castor angle 4 degrees.

I should measure the KPI.

BTW does any one know if we can legally use the type of rod ends Button is referring to ( I call them Rose Joints ) in the UK on road cars.

It would make for a great way to play with bump steer settings.


I don't see a problem, they are used on the S1 Aero and the 3 wheeler
Will need to be fitted with rubber boots though

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

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Thanks Simon.


Bob

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Interestingly the 2016 Plus 4 has the track rods slightly up at the outboard ends, but my Roadster rods are level, so there has been some tweaking going on along the line.

The first owner of my Roadster had a bunfight with the factory because he felt that the bump steer was unsafe. I've only driven one other Roadster from the 2004/5 era, but I don't recall any issues.

The upshot was that my Roadster was fitted with the later stub axles (bronze bushes replacing the plastic/Devols), and the over-rider brackets were opened up to take the lower track-rod positions.

I don't believe they changed the kingpins though which meant that they had to be replaced at 5,000 miles....................
They had significant wear.


DaveW
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Hi DaveW, a couple of questions regarding removing/replacing the front hubs on your job. If you are taking off the front hubs to make another job easier (such as replacing the bushes), rather than for replacing the bearings, do you have to replace the rear grease seal? I have a book on Car Care published in 1994 [same year as my +8, so it's cutting edge!] which I find generally very useful. In addition to replacing the rear seal it also advises packing the hub cavity as well as the bearings with grease on reassembling. Do you do this when you have the hubs off, or do you just put back anything which happens to drop out and bolt the wheels back on? Lastly, on your photos of installing Mulfab Steering Bearings I notice the carpet is spotless. Do you use Shake & Vac? Regards,


1994 +8, BMW Calypso Red.
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Dave, cracking job on the steering shaft shroud


Jon M
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Thanks Jon........you know what you must do next now!!!!!!!


DaveW
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Originally Posted By Calypso Red
Hi DaveW, a couple of questions regarding removing/replacing the front hubs on your job. If you are taking off the front hubs to make another job easier (such as replacing the bushes), rather than for replacing the bearings, do you have to replace the rear grease seal? I have a book on Car Care published in 1994 [same year as my +8, so it's cutting edge!] which I find generally very useful. In addition to replacing the rear seal it also advises packing the hub cavity as well as the bearings with grease on reassembling. Do you do this when you have the hubs off, or do you just put back anything which happens to drop out and bolt the wheels back on? Lastly, on your photos of installing Mulfab Steering Bearings I notice the carpet is spotless. Do you use Shake & Vac? Regards,


I never replace the rear grease seal unless I'm changing the wheel bearings, and to be honest I haven't changed a front wheel bearing since...well, probably 2000.

I do always add grease to the cavity, and around the outer bearing.

My carpet isn't quite as spotless as it looks. I cover it when I'm jobbing, and vac it regularly. I do keep thinking about hiring a carpet cleaner to do the whole thing!!!!


DaveW
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'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Originally Posted By SimonH
Originally Posted By Button
Originally Posted By SimonH
You don’t want to have the track rods level to reduce bump steer
They should be as close as possible to perpendicular to the king pin

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk


I thought it was level with the ground. But as Simon states "Perpendicular to the king pin makes more sense. As My track rods are sloping slightly up with the rod end on top - maybe a problem. I drilled the cone out and use Rod Ends with a SAE thread bolt, sourced from Pegasus Racing, so they can be attached either on top or on the bottom of the stub axle. I will switch them back to the bottom and see if this solves My bump steer.


Slightly up is correct
Remember the kingpin is inclined at about 5-6 degrees

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk


Don't You mean "Slightly Down" to compensate for Caster which is about 2 degrees.

Or am I getting confused with Camber which is about 4 degrees on My +8.


Button
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OOPS I have Caster 4 degrees and Camber 2 degrees mixed up.


Button
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