Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Radiator removal 1999 +4

Could anyone tell me the best way to remove the rad on my 1999 +4 (Rover T16), please?
It looks as though it should drop out through the bottom, but then would the steering rack etc need to be removed to allow sufficient clearance?
It's had a replacement rad fitted by the previous owner, but this one has a slight seep from the weld below the neck for the bottom hose, and I'd rather have a proper repair done than just make do with eggs/Radweld!
Any help greatly appreciated...

Hi Sid,
If it helps I have a 1997 T16 +4 and I took off the cowel to get the radiator out. I do not have a steering rack but a steering box. I found I could not get the radiator over the top bar between the inner wings with the cowel in place.You do need long arms or an assistant.
All the best
David

This is not a job I've done yet, but it looks like the top bar will slide out, then the radiator can be dropped, but it's very close to the rack, so it looks like trial & error.

I removed the radiator from my 1973 4/4 2 seater last year to have the top filler cap inlet renewed and also repositioned to enable the fitting of an overflow tank to the system.
The only way was down and out. I had to loosen the right hand side bracket at the bottom and pivot it away from the radiator path. After that a lot of jiggering and it just dropped out and into my hands. It also took more jiggering to refit and lots of patience.
Have a go and good luck.
A helper would also make the job much easier to.

Thanks for the info, everyone – now I've had a good look under the car with it up on axle stands, it's fairly obvious how the rad comes out.
It's supported on two brackets that are bolted to the chassis, just behind the crosshead, but as my car has a good covering of underseal, these seperate brackets, and their bolts, weren't immediately apparent.
Like Rubymorgan says, by just removing one of the brackets it's possible to slide the rad out – once the upper rod and Kenlowe fan have been removed. Thankfully, the rack doesn't need touching at all. And yes, there is a fair bit of jiggering about to be done!
I've now had the radiator repaired (a new core and the bottom neck re-affixed) at a cost of £156.00(!). But I suppose it is half the price of a new one.
I think a lot of radiator problems could be the result of a combination of the chassis flexing and the rigidity of the radiator mountings, making the poor old rad almost a 'stressed member' of the chassis.
So, having contacted a chap called Peter Goodman of Vibration Improvement Products here in Leicester, he's supplied me with some softer mounting bobbins that I'm going to try. These have male/female connectors, unlike the male/male on the originals, so a bolt needs to be screwed in from below through the bracket and into the bobbin, but that's not really a problem, though.
An alternative suggestion for a more flexible mounting is drilling a couple of 6mm holes (at right-angles to each other) through the rubber of the original bobbins, to make them far less rigid.
I did try this, and it does make the bobbin a lot more flexible, so I'm going to use this modified bobbin on the upper mounting, and the two new, softer bobbins on the lower mountings – and hope that the radiator is no longer affected by the chassis flexing. Time will tell...