Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 M3W Fuel Pump Replacement

Yes the fuel filter play the regulator
I saw it with the walbro
The wires were hot when I put a bigger fuse 20a because 15A burned.
And without filter on the A 5A fuse worked fine.

Just wanted to add my thanks to Bunny and Planenut for their great article on fuel pump replacement. Used it today to preemptively replace the fuel pump in my car with a Walbro GSS242. Hardest and longest part of the project was getting the black plastic weathershield off. Have decided to live without it now that I have a decent rear mudguard. The only thing I might add to the directions is to make sure the fuel system is fully depressurized, like overnight, before removing fuel lines. Any residual pressure in the system will soon become dramatically apparent, as I found out. :o

I was amazed at the amount of what appeared to be aluminum shavings in the sump/tub that the pump sits in. The fuel tank itself looked fairly clean inside from what I could see. Sorry I forgot to take pictures.

Speaking of the sump tub: with fuel ingress possible only at the top of the tub, it means the last 4 plus inches or so of fuel in both tanks is unusable, which is about 1/3 of the tank height, and therefore capacity! Pretty silly, it seems to me, to haul around 4 gallons of fuel you can never use. The Land Rover from which the fuel pump assembly comes must have some sort of deeper sump arrangement. So after thinking about it for a short while, I drilled three half inch holes near the bottom of the tub, which should give near complete use of all available fuel, should I ever need it.

Should you decide to do the same, note the sump tub is fairly brittle, so start with a small bit, then use a step bit if you have one. I went from an 1/8" bit to a two flute 3/8" one and it "chunked" out a small piece of the tub. Changing to a single flute step bit provided smooth controlled cutting.

What is the purpose of the Sump Tub?

Glad you found it useful but sorry you got sprayed! Check out the big red safety statement on page 3: 'Ensure the fuel pressure has dissipated before breaking into the system - this can take several hours.'

I would encourage you to replace the cover over the pump assembly, even if just loosely. A fair amount of muck does find it's way under the parcel tray, even with an inner mudguard fitted.
I think we've established on these pages that the fuel below the level of the sump inlet IS in fact used. Something to do with the valve on the side of the sump, where the larger convoluted hose attaches if I remember rightly.

Thank you so much for this thread and I'll see if you guys can help put my mind at ease.

Ten months ago I was driving on the freeway and the car shuttered, it felt like a pulsating throttle so the car would lurch forward then slow down and repeat a few more times then came to a stop with the engine killed. The fuel pump was sporadic when turning the key and eventually you couldn't hear it turn on at all. This was the 2nd time I ran out of gas because I wasn't paying attention and I know that will kill the pump pretty quickly. I left the next day for a 10 month deployment and the only thing I had time to do was put fuel stabilizer in it and the oil was changed the day prior.

Fast forward to today. I followed this guide and the car started up, however you can tell it was running rough. It pumped out quite a bit of white smoke as I let it warm up. I took it for a drive around the block in first gear 3k rpm to be as gentle as I can. I felt the slightest undulations in power, that lurching sensation again and the check engine light was on the whole time. So I'm curious if you guys have had anything similar happen after 10 months with stabilizer in the tank? White smoke can also be valve seals, but I'm not sure if this is a common problem with S&S. I'm going to take it on a few more drives to see how it reacts, but I'll take any info you've got.

Consider draining the tank & putting fresh fuel in. Fuel with ethanol blend does go off quickly. You dont say where you are but in UK petrol is E5 ie 5% ethanol. On the continent E10 is wide spread. Opinion varies on whether fuel stabilisers work, may be just snake oil.

What lines would you remove to drain the tanks?

You can only disconnect the crossover pipe between two tanks, but it would be MUCH easier to remove the fuel pump or the sender unit and suck it all out using a cheap liquid transfer pump.

You need new fuel. Check out this test, you’ll be surprised:

https://youtu.be/UvS_D4_lF5U

Cheap liquid transfer pump:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00318D7K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gwVOEb2F5J3TM

You can jack up the rear so the fuel collects closer to the fuel pump outlet, or jack up the front, if you prefer to undo the sender unit. It is easier to use the fuel pump hole.

Disconnect the 2 flexible fuel lines behind the engine. One of these is the feed from the tank and will slowly drain the fuel.

Easier than getting to the balance pipe between the tanks