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Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline OP
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Whilst moving my air intake over to the cooler side of the engine away from the exhaust a thought occurred to me… I’m going to all this trouble for maybe a degree or two but actually how accurate is the inlet air senor anyway?

Using a scan tool and a thermocouple attached to a calibrated thermometer I did a quick check on my IAT sensor’s output. Surprise surpirse my sensor was reading around 15% high. Not ideal. The ECU will be being fooled into thinking the air is a bit hotter than it actually is. Don’t really know how much difference it will make but I guess my engine might be running a tad lean when in open loop mode so thought it best replace the sensor.

My duratec uses a TMAP sensor which is a combined IAT and MAP sensor all in one. I ordered up a new one and tested it as soon as it arrived. It was exactly the same as the original around 15% high. Returned that unit and ordered another and that was even worse at around 20% high.

I apologise in advance to all the wincing electrical experts reading this (I am not). I decided to break into the new sensor and attempt a little surgery. I cut a square hole in the front face, cut the track on the pcb running to the thermistor and wired a 10k pot in series.



Butchered sensor re-assembled and filled with epoxy to re-seal. Did a quick test to check the MAP sensor was still working ok after the trauma and all was well. I now have an adjustable IAT sensor that I can set to the correct temp….. well actually I have biased it a little on the cool side evil


And by the way, here’s a pic of my new repositioned cool(ish) intake. I wonder if it will all actually make any difference smile


Roger
2011 Plus 4
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Hi Roger

Reminds me of a 'tweak' from years ago with early Ford EEC4 systems. Chop into the coolant temp sensor line (used by the ECU for fuel trim) and solder in a variable resistor, tweak it with a screwdriver to get a better mix and BHP. Of course Rich does not always equal more HP but you can have a play now and trim to whatever you want ;-).

Like it!


BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
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E
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Not convinced it will make any real difference. I think if it is say 0C it wants to know that but do not think between say 17C and 21C any real issue.

Last edited by Eddie Cairns; 08/09/17 12:31 PM.
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Originally Posted By Rog
Whilst moving my air intake over to the cooler side of the engine away from the exhaust a thought occurred to me… I’m going to all this trouble for maybe a degree or two but actually how accurate is the inlet air senor anyway?

Using a scan tool and a thermocouple attached to a calibrated thermometer I did a quick check on my IAT sensor’s output. Surprise surpirse my sensor was reading around 15% high. Not ideal. The ECU will be being fooled into thinking the air is a bit hotter than it actually is. Don’t really know how much difference it will make but I guess my engine might be running a tad lean when in open loop mode so thought it best replace the sensor.

My duratec uses a TMAP sensor which is a combined IAT and MAP sensor all in one. I ordered up a new one and tested it as soon as it arrived. It was exactly the same as the original around 15% high. Returned that unit and ordered another and that was even worse at around 20% high.

I apologise in advance to all the wincing electrical experts reading this (I am not). I decided to break into the new sensor and attempt a little surgery. I cut a square hole in the front face, cut the track on the pcb running to the thermistor and wired a 10k pot in series.



Butchered sensor re-assembled and filled with epoxy to re-seal. Did a quick test to check the MAP sensor was still working ok after the trauma and all was well. I now have an adjustable IAT sensor that I can set to the correct temp….. well actually I have biased it a little on the cool side evil


And by the way, here’s a pic of my new repositioned cool(ish) intake. I wonder if it will all actually make any difference smile


not sure if the TMAP 'tweak' will work ,but I can't fault your logic notworthy

I have to compliment you on the air filter set up too (which looks great) and also the exceptionally shiny engine bay - it's a real credit to you thumbs

James


Aero8 , Series 1 - Boston Green
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We have always been interested in having an air scoop just on top of the rad behind the morgan grill.

The idea is we would get the cold air which is more dense and gives more bhp and also at spped a ram air effect. we just need some boff to design one to fit on a 3 d printer or adapt some piece of plastic to pipe the air into the air intake,. We have a Plus 4 with the rover T16 engine and after a hot run and an immediate stop at a junction we get hot air sucked in to the engine which the ecu has to change the mixture for....better would be an intake NOT in the engine bay above the exhaust manifold!


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970

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looking at the placement of your cone filter especially pointing up to the bonnet louvres will give you some rain water induction?


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970

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B
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The S.S. bonnet modification is what I use on My +4-4STR for fresh cool air and air filter.

Lots of options if willing to modify the bonnet.


Button
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Rog Offline OP
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Originally Posted By James B W

and also the exceptionally shiny engine bay

Thanks James but some photos can really be deceiving thumbs


Roger
2011 Plus 4
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Rog Offline OP
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Originally Posted By BuyBritish
looking at the placement of your cone filter especially pointing up to the bonnet louvres will give you some rain water induction?


Rob unfortunately I’m a little deficient in the top louver department so I shouldn’t have a problem with water. If you had full louvres you might need a solid top cone filter.




Roger
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Did the resistor mod make any diference...dont forget to set it back cause if the engine is rich you'll fail the MOT ?


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970

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