Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Roadster - The Hose Job - Dave's How To...........

I've had a small coolant leak on the hose which connects the thermostat housing to the bottom hose from day 1 in my ownership. It's never been more than irritating, and I tried last winter to stop it, without success. It's a short straight length, 32mm inside diameter and approximately 100mm long.
It sits between the nearside bulkhead and the water pump drive belt and access is tight. Where the thermostat housing presses against the bulkhead I've inserted some woven heat barrier to cushion the pressure. You can see here that I added two lower clamps in a last ditch attempt to stop the drip.


This picture shows just how close the clip worm drive is to the drive belt. here I'm teasing the joint free with a screwdriver.


I fitted a plastic bag over the cap to hold as much coolant in there as possible.


I also use a special oil drip can for "coolant only" and this just fits under the Mog where the coolant will run out.


The bottom hose is connected to the problem hose by a long stainless pipe, which is shaped to fit snugly between the block and exhaust manifold. This is the pipe I insulated with "Reflect-A-Cool" on a previous post, to reduce the impact of radiated heat from the manifold into the coolant. At the front this pipe is secured to the block by a single bolt, which also locates the timing chain cover to the block. This needs loosening off - 10mm socket.




I ended up taking this bolt out. It came out wet, so it must go into the water jacket. Here it is with some thread sealant, awaiting refitting.


With the stainless pipe loosened, I took the easy route and carefully cut the old hose off with a Stanley Knife.


The old hose looks past its best. The writing is "32 x 41 MM HY/H*" 32 is inside diameter, 41 is outside diameter. The last character is indistinct.




More to follow>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The end of the stainless pipe didn't feel smooth, so I used some 120W&D to smooth off the surface for improved sealing. This is not easy to get at.


The hose and fittings came from Demon Tweeks. Unfortunately the (Samco) silicon hose comes in Metre lengths. There are a range of colours, but I chose classic black.




I used masking tape to mark off a length of just over 100mm, and cut with the Stanley Knife.


The clips are ABA stainless(made in Sweden - really).....they have a flat stainless band which bears onto the hose for optimum pressure. Size 32-44mm.


Up to this point, all had gone smoothly. I refitted the hose & new clamps, refilled the coolant, and packed away. Then I checked underneath.................
It was dripping.

And then it got difficult. First a repeat of "drain - remove etc etc". So I tried some silicon sealer. Replaced everything again.
Then I checked underneath.................
It was dripping.

Clearly the stainless pipe was compromised in some way. So it had to come off. This was easier than I expected, it's a bit like a puzzle, but eventually it came out.


This is the end of the pipe after more use of W&D to smooth out a number of grooves which ran lengthwise. You can also see here that the bend has flattened the profile, so the stainless clip must be fitted as close as possible to the lip, which is the most circular part of the pipe.


I ended up using some PTFE plumbing sealer tape over the lip and the first few mm of the pipe. I was able to relocate the worm drive of the top clip on the side away from the drive belt - so much better clearance.


I didn't lose too much coolant on the first attempt, but the second & third attempts caused more loss.


Here's a reminder about the antifreeze I use.


More to follow>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Topping up the radiator. I used some leak sealer last winter, and most of seemed to have collected. or stuck around this location. I was able to fish it out with my fingers and a rag.


Here it is back together. Much better clearance for the top clip.
This morning there were a few drips on my drip tray, so I ran the engine up to temp after tightening the clips another turn.


Having just rechecked - so far no drips, but time will tell.
Fingers crossed.

just in time for me
but from Samco you could order also the right size
direct replacement kits? perhaps not for MORGAN
Samco

I wanted to be able to cut a longer length than the standard hose - at least with a metre length I have a lifetime supply!

Well Done Dave. Another super piece of photographic Workmanship.. Thanks for sharing.

Hi,
I didn't find any Morgan offers and the site doesn't feature any search capabilities.
Do you have more infos ?
BR.
Daniel.

Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2011

I've had a small coolant leak on the hose which connects the thermostat housing to the bottom hose from day 1 in my ownership. It's never been more than irritating, and I tried last winter to stop it, without success. It's a short straight length, 32mm inside diameter and approximately 100mm long.
It sits between the nearside bulkhead and the water pump drive belt and access is tight. Where the thermostat housing presses against the bulkhead I've inserted some woven heat barrier to cushion the pressure. You can see here that I added two lower clamps in a last ditch attempt to stop the drip.



This picture shows just how close the clip worm drive is to the drive belt. here I'm teasing the joint free with a screwdriver.



I fitted a plastic bag over the cap to hold as much coolant in there as possible.



I also use a special oil drip can for "coolant only" and this just fits under the Mog where the coolant will run out.



The bottom hose is connected to the problem hose by a long stainless pipe, which is shaped to fit snugly between the block and exhaust manifold. This is the pipe I insulated with "Reflect-A-Cool" on a previous post, to reduce the impact of radiated heat from the manifold into the coolant. At the front this pipe is secured to the block by a single bolt, which also locates the timing chain cover to the block. This needs loosening off - 10mm socket.





I ended up taking this bolt out. It came out wet, so it must go into the water jacket. Here it is with some thread sealant, awaiting refitting.



With the stainless pipe loosened, I took the easy route and carefully cut the old hose off with a Stanley Knife.



The old hose looks past its best. The writing is "32 x 41 MM HY/H*" 32 is inside diameter, 41 is outside diameter. The last character is indistinct.





More to follow>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2011

The end of the stainless pipe didn't feel smooth, so I used some 120W&D to smooth off the surface for improved sealing. This is not easy to get at.



The hose and fittings came from Demon Tweeks. Unfortunately the (Samco) silicon hose comes in Metre lengths. There are a range of colours, but I chose classic black.





I used masking tape to mark off a length of just over 100mm, and cut with the Stanley Knife.



The clips are ABA stainless(made in Sweden - really).....they have a flat stainless band which bears onto the hose for optimum pressure. Size 32-44mm.



Up to this point, all had gone smoothly. I refitted the hose & new clamps, refilled the coolant, and packed away. Then I checked underneath.................
It was dripping...........................

And then it got difficult. First a repeat of "drain - remove etc etc". So I tried some silicon sealer. Replaced everything again.
Then I checked underneath.................
It was dripping..............................

Clearly the stainless pipe was compromised in some way. So it had to come off. This was easier than I expected, it's a bit like a puzzle, but eventually it came out.



This is the end of the pipe after more use of W&D to smooth out a number of grooves which ran lengthwise. You can also see here that the bend has flattened the profile, so the stainless clip must be fitted as close as possible to the lip, which is the most circular part of the pipe.



I ended up using some PTFE plumbing sealer tape over the lip and the first few mm of the pipe. I was able to relocate the worm drive of the top clip on the side away from the drive belt - so much better clearance.



I didn't lose too much coolant on the first attempt, but the second & third attempts caused more loss.



Here's a reminder about the antifreeze I use.



More to follow>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2011

Topping up the radiator. I used some leak sealer last winter, and most of seemed to have collected. or stuck around this location. I was able to fish it out with my fingers and a rag.



Here it is back together. Much better clearance for the top clip.
This morning there were a few drips on my drip tray, so I ran the engine up to temp after tightening the clips another turn.



Having just rechecked - so far no drips, but time will tell.
Fingers crossed.

2017 Note. This finally solved the problem. Be aware though that in really cold weather, the metal pipe shrinks to the extent that a small leak may develop, so check it occasionally.