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Joined: May 2009
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Originally Posted By trevmar
On my 2003 Plus 8 the tennex fasteners seem to work OK, but I'm having great difficulty at the 'other end' i.e where the hood engages with the header rail on the windscreen. Can someone enlighten me on how to adjust the "claws" which seem to have a small locknut and presumably control the tension? Is this type of hood what they call the 'everflex'?

Hi Trevmar
Everflex is the more expensive Fabric the hood is made from and tends to be stiffer than the softer 'vinyl' type.

I dont think the Tenex fasteners are adjustable. I Busted one lifting the hood so have a few spares. The outer body is riveted together and the lock nut just holds the outer to itself (inner).

I fitted my new one using an old Golf Shoe Stud spanner but there are proper tools for the job coffee


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Originally Posted By trevmar
On my 2003 Plus 8 the tennex fasteners seem to work OK, but I'm having great difficulty at the 'other end' i.e where the hood engages with the header rail on the windscreen. Can someone enlighten me on how to adjust the "claws" which seem to have a small locknut and presumably control the tension? Is this type of hood what they call the 'everflex'?


Trev - it sounds like you have the "easyfit" hood, with a chrome U-section rail running the full width, lined with a rubber U-channel, and a black over-centre catch at each end which engages with a ridge on the inside of the windscreen side upright...?

If so, the main thing is to ensure the rail and its rubber seal is seating properly on the top of the windscreen frame. To make this easier, first release the hood at the rear. Then carefully seat the rail on the screen and check that you haven't got the ends of the rubber channel folded over, due to them having come unglued. This was the case with mine when I first got it. If it is folded over, you'll have a hell of a job getting it to fit! If this is the case, do one end at a time, easing the rubber seal into place first at one end then the other, and get it to seat as far down on the windscreen as possible (should be about 3/4 of the top chrome surround covered). Bang it down with a fist if necessary! Then open the doors, engage the two catches one at a time and flip them over so they are engaged. If this is hard to do with the rail properly seated on the screen, the locknuts need to be loosened and the claw part unscrewed so it is longer and required less tension to engage - or if very easy (this might well be the case if the rail was never seated properly before) they will need adjusting in the opposite direction, i.e. shorter. When you're happy with the adjustment, re-tighten the locknut (something like an 8mm spanner is needed). Now you can go to the back of the hood and slam it shut.

If you don't often use the hood it may have "shrunk" so leave it erected for a while. Then take it down and have a good look at the inside of the U-channel - is the rubber channel properly glued in at the ends? If not, it needs to be glued so it doesn't get folded over again - a good contact adhesive will do - I did this and had a good result for a year or so but it eventually came unglued again and it was reglued for me when it was in at Allon-Whites with something black (I suspect a 2-pack marine contact adhesive) that has lasted longer!

Getting it to seat properly is essential to stop leaks. Allon-Whites also cut away the back edge of the seal on mine, only at the sides, and this did make it easier to get it seated just right. A little silicone spray inside the rubber channel helps too.

Do experiment with getting the channel to seat well, and adjust the claws - it's worth the trouble, only takes a few minutes and you will soon work out how it functions. When it seats properly and the claws are just right, it can be put up very quickly - but releasing the back edge (little Ford-style door handle thing) is important or you are working against the tension in the material.

And "Everflex" is the name of the thick textured vinyl hood material.

Nigel

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Nigel - thanks so much, that explains a lot! I don't use the hood often, and did not realise the 'boot' release is also part of the game. Mine is mohair (at least, that's what I paid for) so not 'everflex', but should soon be 'easyfit' thanks to your advice. Would have been nice to have all this good info in the owner's manual!

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Thanks Frank - sorry if I misled you, it was the 'claws' at the top, not the Tennex themselves - Nigel's reply was right on.

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Now I see what you mean. and I got the Everflex bit the wron way round describing 'Mohair' - I put it down to Age. oldgit doh Well done Nigel. cheers


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Originally Posted By trevmar
Nigel - thanks so much, that explains a lot! I don't use the hood often, and did not realise the 'boot' release is also part of the game. Mine is mohair (at least, that's what I paid for) so not 'everflex', but should soon be 'easyfit' thanks to your advice. Would have been nice to have all this good info in the owner's manual!


..."Owners manual"? rofl

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Exactly that - an anagram of "Name runs awol"........

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My 4/4 has an Everflex hood. A b*****d to erect with cold hands due it being taut and stiff. I bought swivel levers and they transformed the fitting. By their cam action they lower the hood supports meaning the hood is slack to make fastening easy. Then rotating the levers raises the supports to put tension in the hood. SO much easier. I have replaced some of the dot fasteners too as they were worn and not seating correctly, easing up from fully presed down position. I have used soft neoprene self adhesive "D" strips to draught and waterproof some gaps round sidescreens - bought from Carbuildersolutions. A bit more extra seal work will reduce water through gaps. My next area is the rear area of the door where sidescreen overlaps the hood side. This is a poorly sealed area and I think thats where water gets in and sits on the inner sill.I think a drip strip attached to the hood may divert water that gets past the sidescreen rubber.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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Originally Posted By sospan
My 4/4 has an Everflex hood. A b*****d to erect with cold hands due it being taut and stiff. I bought swivel levers and they transformed the fitting. By their cam action they lower the hood supports meaning the hood is slack to make fastening easy. Then rotating the levers raises the supports to put tension in the hood. SO much easier. I have replaced some of the dot fasteners too as they were worn and not seating correctly, easing up from fully presed down position. I have used soft neoprene self adhesive "D" strips to draught and waterproof some gaps round sidescreens - bought from Carbuildersolutions. A bit more extra seal work will reduce water through gaps. My next area is the rear area of the door where sidescreen overlaps the hood side. This is a poorly sealed area and I think thats where water gets in and sits on the inner sill.I think a drip strip attached to the hood may divert water that gets past the sidescreen rubber.


The ubitquous towel may help. Not being technological, I just drive faster. Probably doesn't help the problem but as escapism, it works really well


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towel/cloth/microfibre pads etc......
all part of the kit!
As for speed....
Whenever possible.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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