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Joined: Aug 2020
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Talk Morgan Regular
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Another thread revival.

Attempted a brake fluid change, and everything was going smoothly, until things got really hard.
So, drawing reservoir first and replaced with new. Attached hose and the fluid came out easy when peddle pressed. Then everything firmed up and was very difficult to push peddle. I replaced the valve hose, with just a plain hose with no valve and it started working again, but firmed up. I did still have the hand brake on, but if that wasn't the reason, can anyone suggest where I'm going wrong?
Thanks.


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Tricky Dicky
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Let the handbrake off and try again.


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Make sure the bleed valve is loosened enough. But not too much.


DaveW
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Nipple was sufficiently opened and drained off quite easily, but it just slowed down to practically nothing. I don't think the tube twisted the nipple closed. Will knock the hand brake off, and try again. The peddle felt like when you pump the peddle with the engine off, and the pressure builds up making the peddle extremely hard to press. 🤷‍♂️


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Originally Posted by Leroy
Nipple was sufficiently opened and drained off quite easily, but it just slowed down to practically nothing. I don't think the tube twisted the nipple closed. Will knock the hand brake off, and try again. The peddle felt like when you pump the peddle with the engine off, and the pressure builds up making the peddle extremely hard to press. 🤷‍♂️

I cannot see why the handbrake would make as much difference as this.
I would try one of the other wheels to see if you have the same problem. If it’s only this wheel, then maybe remove the bleed nipple completely to see if there is a blockage either in the nipple itself or in the cylinder outlet.
On the other hand, if all wheels exhibit the same issue and you are using a plain tube to bleed rather than a valve, then it points to an issue with the master cylinder.


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Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Leroy
Nipple was sufficiently opened and drained off quite easily, but it just slowed down to practically nothing. I don't think the tube twisted the nipple closed. Will knock the hand brake off, and try again. The peddle felt like when you pump the peddle with the engine off, and the pressure builds up making the peddle extremely hard to press. 🤷‍♂️

I cannot see why the handbrake would make as much difference as this.
I would try one of the other wheels to see if you have the same problem. If it’s only this wheel, then maybe remove the bleed nipple completely to see if there is a blockage either in the nipple itself or in the cylinder outlet.
On the other hand, if all wheels exhibit the same issue and you are using a plain tube to bleed rather than a valve, then it points to an issue with the master cylinder.


Think I've solved it. Bled the drivers rear, no problem, then problem came back on the front drivers side after no problems with the front rear. Think the pressure of my set up was causing the tube to twist, and in doing so, nipping the nipple closed fractionally. Adjusted it, then no problems.


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[Linked Image]
Here is my set up which worked perfectly when the nipples were correctly open.
However, I have another query. After finishing, I sat in the car with the ignition on but engine off, and when I pressed the brake peddle, it the brake light switch is making a clicking noise. I've never heard that noise before, but probably never pressed the brake peddle without the engine running whilst the ignition is on. Is this normal?


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Originally Posted by Leroy
I've never heard that noise before, but probably never pressed the brake peddle without the engine running whilst the ignition is on. Is this normal?

If you have one of those pressure operated brake light switches then somebody might have added a relay to reduce the current on the contacts, that might be the clicking?


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Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Leroy
I've never heard that noise before, but probably never pressed the brake peddle without the engine running whilst the ignition is on. Is this normal?

If you have one of those pressure operated brake light switches then somebody might have added a relay to reduce the current on the contacts, that might be the clicking?

Thanks Rog. Any idea where the relay might be located if this has been done?


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Just had a quick look, ably assisted by my nearly 8 year old daughter. There is what I would think is a blue translucent relay wired to the loom directly above where the brake switch is that is causing the clicking when the pedal is pressed. Guess that this is what it is. I take it, it wouldn't normally have this relay, and that you would only need the relay to reduce the current to extend the life of the switch?


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