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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
My 2012 M3W did not have the frame brace nor the timing gear upgraded by the previous owner, so I assumed that he hadn't upgraded the rear sprocket, either. I'm in the process of installing a SuperMax sprocket. I was surprised to see that I have the newer, black-anodized hub. I'm assuming that it's possible that it was so-equipped from the factory, as someone said something about "early 2012" models and I have no idea whether mine fits that temporal designation. When I pulled the hub off to replace the tire (wasn't going to put back a 10K-mile tire after the struggle to get the wheel off), I noticed that the lug bolts had copper-colored anti-seize on them. Somehow, that isn't what I would have expected from Malvern. Had to clamp the wheel to my pickup tailgate to resist the torque from the breaker bar while loosening the lug bolts. My air impact gun wasn't sufficient.

To the point, I'm curious as to whether my hub is original or upgraded. Is it true that "late 2012" models had the black hub? Can anyone shed light on whether the factory uses anti-seize on the lug bolts and, if so, what color? Why do I care? I'm not sure, or maybe I just don't want to face my personal quirks.

The tire recommended by a friend in the business is the Kumho Ecsta PA31. It's a directional tire, so I told them to consider it to be a left-side wheel. The Supermax pulley (sprocket) was recommended by Morgan Spares of New England. Like the old-style sprocket, it is flanged only on the wheel side.

I'm hoping henceforth to roll along without screeching like a hinge desperately in need of oil.

Last edited by AncientMariner; 19/08/19 06:44 PM.

John, retired Marine Engineer
87 Morgan +8+, 12 Morgan 3W
Joined: Apr 2013
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Has a lot to Say!
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Joined: Apr 2013
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It definitely sounds like an upgrade. The original stock aluminum sprocket was anodized but still looked like raw aluminum. The newer steel sprockets are black anodized. The copper colored 'anti-seize' sounds like Loctite was used and that is not what the factory used on the rear wheel. They just torqued it hard. You may have just paid for a SuperMax sprocket that you might not need. The steel sprocket makes no noise what ever and will outlast the SuperMax. I know. I was the first to use one and I broke it after only 19,000 miles. The steel one should last as long as the car. The belt should go for about 100,000 miles before replacing.

Hope this helps!


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
Joined: Jun 2012
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Joined: Jun 2012
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The anodised black hub was introduced in late 2012 or early 2013, so it looks like yours was changed later, particularly if you have Copperslip anti seize on the threads. The black hub spaces the drive sprocket out from the tyre a few more mm and should allow the fitment of a drive sprocket with both inner and outer guide plates as the belt should run fully on the sprocket. With the earlier aluminium hub the belt ran a few mm off the outer side of the hub. Hopefully you replaced the rear hub bearings while the wheel was out as well? They are not expensive and the originals are not top quality.

The steel sprocket is easy to identify, it weighs much more than the alloy one and doesn't wear out, as I am sure you know. The SuperMax should work well, with or without an outer guide plate, several people on this forum have them. The Kumho is a good choice, I have used the KH27 and it's OK. There are some other tyres with improved wet performance and a fairly symmetrical tread.

As you have a 2012 car that doesn't have all the upgrades, have you read the notice from MMC 3rd from the top on this forum about chassis cracks and brake pedal failures?

Joined: Apr 2018
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Michael H, thanks for the advice. I guess I'll have to see how long the Supermax lasts. I'm curious as to how long timing belts last. Mine shredded at just over 10K miles. I hope that isn't typical.

Planenut, I was thinking of doing the bearings but they seem tight so I wasn't going to do it at this time, until I saw your comment. Thanks for the tip. I am roughly aware of the chassis crack issue but not of brake pedal failures. Again, thanks for the tip.


John, retired Marine Engineer
87 Morgan +8+, 12 Morgan 3W

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