Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 What the brake pedal modification kit looks like

Acknowledgment to Bunny on this forum.

This is for a LHD 2012 car but you should get the idea of what the laser cut steel pedal support looks like. I may have a go at fitting the modification kit today (after I check the forecast as it is rather dark and overcast here in France today) and if I am successful, will post pictures of that.

Wilson



PS I see that Richard just beat me to the line.

Thanks for the illustrations, gents. My pedals have lightening holes instead of "M3W," so I guess I'm in the clear, at least on this issue.

I have today managed to fit the brake lever reinforcement kit. If I as a 73 year old arthritic can do it, then I would guess most members here will be able to do it as well.

Some tips which may make life easier for others intending to fit the kit themselves

1) The original split pin in the existing clevis pin through the actuator arm and master cylinder fork is a pig to get out. Removing the under bonnet access panel helps a bit but more with providing light rather than access. I also unbolted the three clips holding the brake fluid rubber pipes, to move them to one side. Eventually I found I needed to lock the clevis pin from rotating with a pair of narrow jaw grips, in order to use a screwdriver to get the split pin leaves nearly straight. I was then able to pull the split pin out with a pair of very small (10cm) tinker's claws end cutters (a very useful tool).

2) Getting the bracket on to the pedal with the sleeve and new threaded clevis bolt was not difficult although the bracket did need a tap to get it to seat properly. You will need a 13mm open end spanner to wind in and tighten the threaded clevis pin, as it has only 2 flats on it. Do NOT put the split pin into the threaded clevis pin at this stage.

3) I found I had to grind a taper onto the nose of the existing clevis pin to get it through the fork of the brake master cylinder, the original actuator arm and the new actuator arm. The holes do not line up particularly well. You may find, as I did, the need to rotate the fork very slightly before you can drive the clevis pin though all four holes. I used the side of a 1 pound ball peen hammer to drive it through. Put a split pin (a new one is best) through the old clevis pin and open it up. Again I found locking the clevis pin head from rotating with a pair of grips helped when opening up the split pin.

4) Only now put the split pin through the new threaded clevis pin and open it up, as otherwise it gets in the way of opening up the split pin through the original clevis pin.

Wilson

You have forced me to go look at my new on and see how it was made and installed.

At 73 you are doing well to get in there. I am a couple of months shy of that number and I feel I could get in there but muscle cramps would probably mean the paramedics would have to pry me out one piece at a time.

This is my 2019 pedal assembly. Looks pretty different.

Yes, they've been like yours since late 2012 (mine is a December 2012 and looks like yours). It's only the earliest machines with the M3W in the pedal arms that require the pedal mod.

Well done Wilson!!