Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Fuel pump failure scenario

Yes, sorry for any confusion - the pic is of the connector to the inertia switch - the fuel pump connection is fine. I was surprised to see it look like it had been hot or arcing, especially one of those sealed locking-type connectors (or whatever they are really called). I'm going to try jumping it and see if it changes anything. Curiously, the inertia switch side of the connection looks perfectly fine and clean!

I have zero M3W experience, however to me it looks like you have found the fault at the burned connector. This fault could have been caused by a number of issues... the connector is undersized for the load (fuel pump) current, or more likely that for some reason the connector was a loose male to female junction, generally the female end being a loose fit..!!!

Any slack in such a connection WILL cause heat to be generated the effect of which is obvious in your picture. The burning will increase the resistance to the flow of electricity and thus drop the voltage to the load (in this case the fuel pump) causing issues perhaps intermittently at first before final failure to supply power...

That the plug is moulded is a bit of a nuisance more so if it plugs directly on to a component as opposed to being a straight through joint, were it the latter the wires leading to the two burned ends either side of the plugs could be cut out of the plug and extended to meet each other via an alternative connector...

IF the overload (too much current) had been caused by a faulty pump, then the fuse for that circuit should blow to protect the wiring, that is why I would tend to suspect a loose connection.

If you fit a new plug then chances are it will burn again as the other half of the plug will also be damaged by burning, and thus the burning process will continue and cause failure again..

If this plugs directly to a component than logically it is best replaced too.... Sure it may be possible to clean up the components connection pin and fit a new plug to the wiring which may work out OK... for a while..

Just noted that you determine the pin is clean... hmm..?

Good luck with your investigations/repair.

Just checked for power at the inertia switch connector, and nothing there. Moved the relays around - one space over for each - and no difference. Fuse is good. What's odd is that the inertia switch connectors look clean (attached picture). Next will try with a pin into the wire going into the connector to see if there is power in the wire, and its the connector that's bad.

In any event, looks like I'll be planning a trip to the dealer - was trying to avoid the 2+ hours each way, but I don't see much alternative. Still under warranty for a bit, so hopefully covered.

[img]http://photos.app.goo.gl/7AhVZsvyyEiRHmkE7[/img]

It is about 15 hours to my nearest dealer...

Sorry to read that your attempts to resolve the situation have failed so far.... I note that you suspect the male end of the connector set-up is not burned as is the female end...? Strange, though the burning could be a poor connection from the cable it`s self into the connector, which is not impossible though harder to spot given the shrouding...

Did you find power at the cable with the burned connector by using a pin to pierce the insulation..?

If not then it seems the circuit is not being made live.... Much depends on the way the components in the circuit are configured relative to each other in order that the ECU can control the sequence of operation. I have seen an inertia switch mentioned and a roll over switch it seems likely there is a relay involved and most certainly a fuse, it also seems likely there may be an anti theft cut out...

As I suggested, knowing how these items are configured is key to tracing a fault... Starting with the fuse, could be the ignition switch which when switched on and whatever anti theft signal is accepted and approved then provides an output to the safety circuits inertia and roll over which if the switches are closed then may power the coil in the relay, the contacts of which then close to power the fuel pump..

Of course it could well be that this is not the physical wiring layout, the relay coil could be directly energised from an ECU output provided once the anti theft checks have been satisfied, Were that the case then the safety components may be fed via a fuse feeding the relay contacts which when closed provide power to the inertia/roll over switches which if their contacts are closed then power up the pump..

From the above descriptions you may be able to detect that there are a number of ways to achieve the same end, and that is what I was referring to in terms of lack of knowledge of the hardware and software combined configuration..

One of the reasons I declare my Luddite tendencies, I do get frustrated with black boxes taking control, more so when there is no need of that degree of technicality..

Were I you, I would definitely wish to gain a full understanding of the configuration in case of breakdown miles from home, though I suspect you could just run a live/hot wire from a fuse to the pump bypassing everything, to get going..? Of course by-passing safety circuits carries risks..

With a digitally controlled machine I wonder if there is a fault code reader available that you could buy, if so then you should be able to begin to trace issues via fault codes. There are generic code readers available but Morgan being Morgan...????

Hope this ramble does more than just spread confusion...

Stephen I'm like you it's around 16 hours drive to my nearest dealer either going West or East. Means you become a self reliant Morgan engineer and have a good transport carrier in your contacts.

Ha, you do indeed know the problems of figuring out what and why Morgan did things and perhaps how to rectify a few of them. It is also the reason I ask so many questions😊

you guys make me realize how blessed.... it is only 5-6 hours for me LOL But that is the dealer that did not tighten the drive belt properly before I picked it up. On our 1200 Goldwing, the fuel pump relay (hidden under all the Tupperware) failed, OR it was the connection that only allows the pump to run when the motor is running failed. I simply ran it to an accessary outlet that is on when the bike is on.

Probably stating the obvious, but did you test it with the ignition switched on?

Also with apologies if teaching granny to suck eggs, the power to the pump is only live for a few seconds unless the engine is actually running so you don't get much time to check.