Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Front suspension

Thank you Sid, great read !

read both and they had a part to play in my plan

Sids post above sort of confirms that AVO shocks and lower springs might be the answer.

+1

Interesting comparison with your +4 and Roadster. The current 2014 on Classics parts book shows different front main springs for Roadster with 4/4 and +4 sharing presumably weaker spring. I'm happy to be corrected but I believe the current OE rates are 125 and 140 lbf/inch, with the higher for the Roadster. Rebound springs are the same across the range.

Prior to recent SSL conversion on 8000 mile Roadster, I found zero static pre-load on rebound spring on one side and 2mm of play on the other, despite having Wolf lower steering bearings accounting for an extra 3mm on the rebound side. Compared with findings on your +4 Sid, it seems extra front weight of Roadster accounts for the 23mm + difference, assuming same rate springs, although a little surprised its so much.

Sid! Great video. Your roads look very smooth compared with the standard UK potholed versions!

I can't take credit fo rthe video, pete757. That was done by Winfried Flugsand back in 2013. So thank you, Winfried!

As for the variation in distances between the bottom of the hub and the top of the rebound springs, I have noticed several Roadsters with this trait.
I've put it down to either Morgan working tolerances (which, let's face it, can be inches rather than thou!), inconsistant spring length, or maybe even the torque generated by the Roadster induces a degree of twist in the chassis resulting in uneven ride height - although you'd think the crosshead would eliminate this to some extent. The crosshead does have a diagonal threaded bracing strut on each side which appears to be adjustable, so maybe that's an indication of a certain amount of variation in crosshead construction dimensions?

I would certainly agree with the points made in the GoMog article on rebound springs as linked above.

On the subject of shocks, I have experience of fitting new AVO shocks to my previous Plus 8 and didn't really drive enough miles to comment on longevity. My current Plus 8 had AVO shocks fitted when I bought it. On trying to resolve some ride issues Techniques discovered that the AVOs were shot and produced no damping effect whatsoever. This was after about 4000 miles!
Bad batch? Don't know, but Techniques and the supplying dealer Brands Hatch, both recommended Konis and not AVOs as replacements.

I am happy with the Konis and on the basis of recommendations and perceived longevity I will stick with those.

Yet another question due differences of info.
If you purchase 125lbs main springs, are they the same length/ height as 140lb ones?
Thanks.

The day before yesterday drove a little too fast over a speed bump with a very loud bang as a result.
Disaster; there goes my new spoiler. Immediately pulled MattMog over to examine the damage.
Nothing wrong with the spoiler. And nothing else to see at the bottom. Weird; it wasn't that steep.
Back home I did a better check and saw that the diagonal tie rot at the right was broken.
Two years ago I also had to replace the broken left one. Is this a common problem?
With my 1990 4/4 1.6 (Two-Tone) I have never had that problem and had much worse bumps.
On Gomog I saw that too much tension could be the cause?
Tomorrow I'll pick up the new one at Belmog and will fix it.

I also had a broken tie rod about 5 years ago on my 2011 +4 on the off side. I was totally unaware until I went underneath for routine greasing. Could not recall a shock loading or noise either. It broke in the same place as yours. You are obviously aware of the tensioning procedure when fitting a replacement in “go- mog”. It is on my list of routine checks every time I grease, but have no issues since. My main shock was the price of a new one...over £30 from memory.
( I know of two others in my area who have suffered similarly but once fixed seem ok so maybe not properly tensioned during manufacture?)

It shouldn't be. I would check the rest of the cross head. I have never heard of a failure before