Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Buying a used M3W

I am at present toying with the idea of buying a M3W, a 2012 model and which , since new , has had the modifications where there were issues, namely, chassis A frame brace, new centa drive, clutch pedal modification, bevel box(2012). Since this would be the only M3W where I live , I am concerned that if anything happens it would be a struggle to get it fixed. The car has 7000kms. In your opinion how reliable would the car be and maybe you can give some advice as to what should I be careful about before buying.

Good luck with this one MOR404

We have had an M3W since new - it is one of the early 2012 versions - it has been reliable in the sense of always getting us home but not low maintenance in the sense of all the various upgrades required (well documented by the various players on this site) and other items requiring attention. If you are not into noticing/diagnosing issues and doing things yourself, you will need a good tame mechanic to help you if there is not a nearby dealer. Overall it is more like running a banger (as we did in our youth) vs running a modern car.

Agree with JMD's comments.
I have several vintage Morgan Three Wheelers and last year took a deliberate decision to buy a 2012 ( no 70) M3W.
With all the main problems fixed at the factory in 2016.
Since purchase have fitted a Walbro fuel pump and Supermax sprocket.
This M3W has since taken us to Norway and back and the tour down through Germany, Austria, Italy and into Grindelwald and back plus numerous minor trips a total of 11,000 miles since purchase. It has never missed a beat or let us down but you need to be an aware sort of owner who does not give up easily. If you have to rely on outside help it can be a problem.
This forum provides all the info you need to make you aware of potential problems, if it goes wrong, fix it and enjoy a drive like no other vehicle.
Ian

James

If you are used to riding/driving bikes or old cars you will probably get on fine. If you only drive the likes of a young Audi & only lift the bonnet when a warning light tells you something need topping up then its probably not for you. You need to be mechanically aware. My 2013 always got me home but went to dealer 3 times on a truck in first 3 1/2 years for engine push-rod, brakes & cracked chassis. Since June 2017 its been reliable only needing a rear brake cylinder since.

I agree If all the upgrades were done No problem .

You need to ensure that all the upgrades have been carried out.

There is a v long list for a 2012 car.

I know ...I had one. It went back to the factory 15 times for fixes.

Others on here will no doubt help wIth a comprehensive and long list of what to check.

These early cars can no doubt be reliable.

But my advice is to do your research thoroughly once you have the check list.
.
I would help with that but there have been more since I sold my car.

All the very best and please do let us know what the outcome is.

If they are not fitted, you should consider the Comfort (or KH Empire) Steering and steel or Supermax sprocket upgrades. The original aluminium sprocket tended to wear badly and the steering upgrades addressed Bump Steer issues. I cannot recall what they cost but the prices are in another thread somewhere.

This is a list I did for a 2013 M3W owner that had not used his car for several years and had only a few miles on it. He was thinking of starting to use it again and wanted to know what had happened with M3W's in the last 6 years and what he needed to do to make it safe and reliable. Some of it may apply to the 2012 car you are viewing MOR404. More detail on these things can be found on this forum, I find a Google search works better than the one on TM.

Essentials.

1. Fit chassis bolt in brace behind engine, essential to reduce further chance of chassis cracks. Should be FOC from Morgan.
There is a recall applicable to your car for chassis cracks that you should have done. Info on Talk Morgan and maybe letter to you soon.
2. Fit steering Comfort Kit. From Morgan.
3. Fit the camchest cover vent spacers and dispose of the gasket. If you don’t do this your cambelt will fail.
4. Check Chassis for cracking in upper wishbone aft area and lower wishbone forward area. Known cracking faults, recall.
5. Replace alloy rear wheel drive sprocket with a steel one. From Morgan or Supermax in USA.
6. Check spec of cambelt drive. Crankshaft bolt and idler wheels, kit available from Morgan or Matts Machine shop (cheaper).
7. Replace fuel hose crimped on clips with screw type hose clips (not Jubilee type).
8. Replace the Harley type compensator with a Centa type. From Morgan. This can also be improved with some mods. (Phil Bleazey)
Harley type usually fails within 6000miles and can bend the crankshaft when it does. This is expensive (engine out) but cheaper than a crank.
9. Replace exhaust rubber mounting bobbins with better quality item, they split.
10. Replace rectifier rubber bobbins, see above, same problem.
11. Fit extra earth wire to rectifier case and check correctly grounded, failure blows the rectifier, usually after it has fried the ECU.
12. Fit an extra locknut to the steering wheel quick release to prevent accidental operation or theft of wheel.
13.Thorough check around engine for chaffing pipes and wire loom.
14. Check the leather arm pads attachment screws for security and Loctite them before they fall out.


Those are the essentials, now the desirables:

1. Replace the exhaust system and air filter with a free flowing type (Morgan Stage 1 or Garage 56 usually)
Alternatively drill out some baffles and cut back filter cover, loud but effective. Engine runs MUCH better.
2. Fit Urban Cooling Kit. From Morgan. Includes a better ECU updated flash for improved running.
3. Replace the Banner battery, if you haven’t already, very marginal even when 100%.
4. Replace the standard fuel pump with a better quality Walbro one, lots of failures.
5. Replace Bevel Box gear oil with Redline Shockproof or Millars EP140. Change every 3000 miles, along with engine oil and filter.
6. Seal around the rear bulkhead edges behind the seats with gaffer tape and/or water pipe insulation to keep out dirt.
7. Recalibrate the speedo to eliminate the 6-8% over read error, easy job.
8. Put some anti puncture sealant like OKO in the rear tyre, you really don’t want a rear wheel puncture.
9. Reposition rectifier mount to post 2014 position on chassis rather than engine. Or replace rectifier with more durable HD one.
10. Don’t fit the NVH bevel box noise reduction kit, it doesn’t work.
11. Join the Morgan 3 wheeler Club and check out Talk Morgan occasionally to see what the latest issues with the M3W are.
12. Lots of info here: https://www.mtwc.co.uk/the-5-speeder/ .