Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Attaching old front susp sub frame to new chassis

I have a '66 Plus 4 (four seater) that needs a new chassis. I've restored multiple other old English cars as a hobby (including another older Morgan) so for the most part I'm very confident and comfortable doing this.

However, the biggest problem I am mulling over (truth be told, I'm rather nervous about it) is as there are no holes pre drilled in the new chassis how to transfer over the front suspension sub frame ENSURING that it is correctly positioned on the new chassis as this can/will affect the caster/camber/alignment and so forth.

This is where I need your collective wisdom on how to do this, any tricks and tips and so forth.
Many thanks, Pat

Pat L - Are You the Pat on Vancouver Island? However I can't help You as I have never done this. But will be interested in the responses You get from Talk Morgan.

Pat

You will need a couple of friends (ideally one who has done this before) and lots of G-Clamps.

As a general rule measure everything at least 3 times, and get a friend to check your measurements before you drill anything.

Set the chassis up on a couple of trestles , but make sure that it is completely flat. Check that the chassis is true, by check measuring both the diagonals and fore and aft distances.

Now set the frame front into the chassis as far back as it will go, and with bottom of the frame front cheek lying on the bottom chassis rail, clamp it lightly and start measuring again.

This time you need to be measuring almost every line , diagonal , and fore and aft distance, PLUS all the heights of the frame front relative to a fixed point on each side. Each time you make an adjustment clamp up the frame front tightly and start all over again! The idea is to get as many of the measurements as close to equal as possible on each side AND across the frame. However as you have already mentioned the positioning of the frame front will also give the castor (aim for at least 4 deg , preferably closer to 6) by angling the cheeks of the frame front up or down relative to the chassis. Then the camber (standard was 2 Deg positive , but this is where individual choice comes in , you can run positive, neutral or negative according to your preferences as a driver using camber plates for the bottom frame lugs, if in doubt about this ask around what others use.

You can change the front ride height by positioning the frame front cheeks higher up in the chassis (normal is level with the bottom chassis rail) but this is more suitable for competition cars on smooth roads, if you have speed bumps or other traffic calming measures nearby stick to standard.

Once all of this is complete and you are sure that you have the frame front positioned correctly , really tighten up those clamps , check it again, and then prepare to drill. If your frame front is already drilled then work from the inside through into the chassis. If not then working from the outside and drilling through both will be easier.

Hello everyone
Interesting thread especially the castor angle chang while mounting the front frame.
I am also about to attach the old front to a new frame of my 1965+4 and was thinking of changing the castor.
I am not clear as to what you call the cheeks of the frame.
Can you please elaborate the castor change by the mounting of the cross frame?
Thank you in advance.
George

The cheeks of the cross frame are the side pieces as shown in this recent parts book image where the (1) is pointing.



It can be seen that caster is increased by attaching frame to chassis with the former tilted further back at its top.

I think there is something onthis on the gomog website but the site seems to be down. Cain at Wolf Perfromance is a good guy & I am sure could talk you through it as he repairs racing Mogs whose front ends get badly dinged.