Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Fuel pump failure scenario

When it comes to learning I care not a jot if the kid I learn from is wearing nappies..

On some modern cars operation of the door handle/unlock system, can start the fuel pump to pre-pressurise the fueling system for a few seconds in order to provide a quick start-up.... Yeah loads of potential for "black box" confusion when fault finding in the comfort of the garage, let alone at the side of the road...

"...the power to the pump is only live for a few seconds unless the engine is actually running"

Thanks Calum!!! Guess I better start practicing on some eggs because I had NOT recalled that this was the behavior! And I was testing with a meter that took me a few seconds to get to the connector with the meter probe after switching the ignition on, etc... One of the challenges of working by yourself with only two hands.

So instead of the meter, I hooked-up a wire to a test light, and voila – there was light - for a few seconds. Then pushed a jumper wire into the two terminals in the connector to bypass the inertia switch, and the pump started like it should next time the ignition was turned-on.

So the problem is definitely the connector not making contact with the inertia switch. I know these connectors come apart somehow, so need to see if I can find instructions on how to disassemble and repair them.

Good to hear that it has started to make sense, it's amazing how many things do once hindsight is allowed is allowed to rear its head!
If you can find the manufacturer and any numbers on the connector you may be able to identify the right parts to allow the connector to be refurbished without having to do any new crimps, failing that then it might have to be a full set new crimps, housing, and the internal parts of the housing. I've managed to sort out such things before after a session on Google identifying parts then searching for specific part numbers on the likes of eBay. Sometimes there are even videos on YouTube to show how the connector is dismantled and re-assembled.

Crimp, solder and shrink tube😊

Got some time today to disassemble the connector - simple really. The white/yellow plastic part lifts out, then you can release each of the connectors. I bent the loose connector socket a bit to tighten-up the connection to the switch, re-assembled, and all is good. I'll check it periodically, but it appears that the socket on one of the leads was a not a tight fit on the tab on the inertia switch, probably causing it to heat-up and resulting in the intermittent connection I was seeing. The connector didn't look bad, but it was clearly getting hot. All good - at least for now!

The yellow plastic internal part lifts out - small pick and it comes right out: https://photos.app.goo.gl/b4pH4nPn4ERcHx8H9

Then the two connectors can be released with the "prong" on each holding them in the plastic holder, visible on lower left side of each in this pic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYReWjjyWioKgase9

Trucking-on, thanks for posting an update. Great that you found the problem and have carried out a fix, though I suspect it will fail again, at least you know where to look when it does... Of course a new plug is the best way to go, though even at that if the other half of the connection has suffered a measure of heat... in time that situation can act like a disease, relative to any new plug..

Looking at your pics there seems to be quite a bit of burning evident, and in that case there is a reasonable chance that the metal connection will have altered it`s properties to some degree, to the extent that trying to squeeze the connection in the hope of improving contact may not work out as you hope long term.... Perhaps if you cut a few short strands of copper wire and put them into the female side of the connector, that might tighten the connection up to the degree when you push them back together and as such be less susceptible to burning..?

connectors are probably one of the most overlooked items of any vehicle. even the so called "water tight" connectors can get a little corrosion which eleads to heat.... repeat multiple times and then failure

New connectors with a bit of dielectric grease them.

I changed fuel pump delphi by walbro
The fusible 15 A didnt résist And the wires Heat
I reinstall delphi And it is ok
I call the saler And I wait

There are some fake Walbro fuel pumps about, have a check on what you have.

https://www.driven2automotive.com/blog/spot-fake-walbro-gss342-fuel-pumps-2017-18/

If it's blowing the fuse and the wire is hot I suggest you check your wiring is correct, it sounds like it's going straight to earth.