Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Missing Central Aluminum Floor Plate

Just curious if anyone is missing their center aluminum plate that goes between the two floor pan panels and covers the underside of where the drive shaft is? One of the cables runs underneath a frame rail and it looks like would interfere with the panel so maybe the factory left off the panel due to fitment. My dealer thinks it fell off but don’t believe it was ever there. Plus I am not missing any bolts underneath.

The only reason I know the panel is missing is when I was working on installing the Bleazey mounts the instructions said to remove the panel that was not there. I went into the Morgan parts diagrams and sure enough there is a part in the drawings. My Morgan is a 2017.

Appreciate you guys checking Your Morgan’s to see if you have the panel so I can be more informed.

If you have changed the Chassis on 2012/2013 model the new Chassis the center Plate is missing

Yes, they stopped fitting that plate ages ago. It definitely wouldn't be fitted to a 2017 model.

It makes you wonder about the knowledge base at your dealers when they think the panel, that has not been fitted to M3W's since 2014, has fallen off!

Interesting. Wonder why they quit putting the panel as it seems like a good idea.

Maybe to keep the bevel box as cool as possible?

Speaking of a cool bevel box.... On gold wings (my experience is with the 4 cylinder ones) there is a rear end that is basically a bevel box (we call it a pumpkin). It only holds a small amount of oil. And yes they get quite warm going 70 mph in 90-100f degree weather. No one worries about them over heating which is a concern I hear again and again on this forum. I cannot imagine the M3W bevel box runs hotter than a gold wing pumpkin. So I am not sure why there is such a concern about the bevel box. I am not trying to be cheeky, but it is something on my Gl1000 I do not worry about, so I am not sure why I should on the M3W?

I think concern over the bevel box goes back to some of the early cars that had a misguided oil additive put into the box which tended to clot up and stop lubricating the internals with the attendant risk of failure. So long as the oil with the additive was flushed out of the bevel box that risk of failure is largely gone. The noise from some (many!) of the bevel boxes is different and does appear to be worse once it is up to temperature but whether or not cooling the box actually helps with the noise is a bit of a moot point. It certainly makes things more complicated if you want to add in an oil cooler and pump.

that makes sense. The first GL1200's had some poor done stators and so the whole 1200 series had a bad reputation (yes I had to change the stator in our 1200 when it was 30 years old).

I do agree the bevel box whines a lot, but that may be in part that it is right behind the seat and there is a lot of "body" to keep the sound in.

[quote=rcmatt I do agree the bevel box whines a lot, but that may be in part that it is right behind the seat and there is a lot of "body" to keep the sound in. [/quote]

That could be the case, but I don't think it is, as some BB's are quiet but most are not. If you have a noisy one, then as it is practically in the car with you, it will be heard.

My first M3W had a BB that was as quiet as the grave, the 2nd one sounded like the devil was having a party around the grave, especially if, as has been said, it was up to temperature, say after half an hours main road running.