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Joined: May 2015
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Originally Posted by Marmota
...MMC is still blocking the sale of any loose QR. You need to buy it with the steering column as a set and it's ridiculously expensive if you're planning to use just the QR banghead

Just for the record, MMC were selling off the old quick releases at their stand at Prescott 2 yrs ago... so they are not totally averse to selling them!!!


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Another option would be a Lifeline QR with weld on boss https://www.demon-tweeks.com/lifeli...4gk7EAQYASABEgL9afD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

What you need to do to original boos I don’t know, could need turning down smaller or chopping off. Wouldn’t need to use a spacer as steering wheel would be closer.

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Originally Posted by Marmota
Originally Posted by Perry_P_M3W
Good day Javier,



P


Hello P! There is no movement at all between the parts of my Traven QR. It's solid rock. I always triple check everything is properly fixed when I put it, rocking it quite solidly, and it never moves.

MMC is still blocking the sale of any loose QR. You need to buy it with the steering column as a set and it's ridiculously expensive if you're planning to use just the QR banghead

If I manage to get loose QR I will immediately warn all Talk Morgan colleagues. cheers



Thanks for the feedback. Mine isn't massively rocking but is a wee bit. I do have a 50mm spacer on mine and was told that might have to do with it. It's not rocking off the connection to the car but rather a slight movement where the QR top and bottom sleeves slide into each other. I'll keep an eye on it but suspect this isn't normal.

Fingers crossed they will view this as a warranty claim and give another. Good old MMC lol.

I did hear from someone that the QR is unique to each car, which I couldn't imagine, and perhaps this is why MMC will not sell it. But then it wouldn't make sense they do when you buy a whole new wheel....

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[quote=I did hear from someone that the QR is unique to each car, which I couldn't imagine, and perhaps this is why MMC will not sell it. But then it wouldn't make sense they do when you buy a whole new wheel....[/quote]

I do believe that would be not true. The QR is a mass produced and (in the case of the Lifeline unit) commercially available. Perhaps the manufacturers selectively choose male and female spline components to minimize play (which I really doubt due to the time/cost of doing so).

I have bought and installed perhaps a dozen different types of QR in street and track cars over the decades and in my experience only one or two had no perceptible play, but most have at least a very small amount, expected with mass produced parts that are intended for repeated removal/assembly. I would generalize that more, finer splines is preferred over less, coarser splines but the materials used and the method of locking the QR onto the shaft also impact the play or lack thereof.

In the case of my M3W (Lifeline with 12mm spacer) there was just a very very slight rocking (in the plane of the wheel) when fully seated, which was dispatched by a 3/4" diameter rubber bottle stopper trimmed to be about 1/16" longer than the distance between the back of the wheel and the end of the splined column. Results in just a bit of constant compression with the wheel installed. A trick I learned from an old racer to reduce the annoying 'sizzle' due to vibration in high rpm formula cars. Btw-because of it's taper, once inserted through the splines the stopper is captive behind the wheel.


Steve
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Originally Posted by Bitsobrits
[quote=I did hear from someone that the QR is unique to each car, which I couldn't imagine, and perhaps this is why MMC will not sell it. But then it wouldn't make sense they do when you buy a whole new wheel....


I do believe that would be not true. The QR is a mass produced and (in the case of the Lifeline unit) commercially available. Perhaps the manufacturers selectively choose male and female spline components to minimize play (which I really doubt due to the time/cost of doing so).

I have bought and installed perhaps a dozen different types of QR in street and track cars over the decades and in my experience only one or two had no perceptible play, but most have at least a very small amount, expected with mass produced parts that are intended for repeated removal/assembly. I would generalize that more, finer splines is preferred over less, coarser splines but the materials used and the method of locking the QR onto the shaft also impact the play or lack thereof.

In the case of my M3W (Lifeline with 12mm spacer) there was just a very very slight rocking (in the plane of the wheel) when fully seated, which was dispatched by a 3/4" diameter rubber bottle stopper trimmed to be about 1/16" longer than the distance between the back of the wheel and the end of the splined column. Results in just a bit of constant compression with the wheel installed. A trick I learned from an old racer to reduce the annoying 'sizzle' due to vibration in high rpm formula cars. Btw-because of it's taper, once inserted through the splines the stopper is captive behind the wheel.


[/quote]

Pics, please! 😀


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"In the case of my M3W (Lifeline with 12mm spacer) there was just a very very slight rocking (in the plane of the wheel) when fully seated, which was dispatched by a 3/4" diameter rubber bottle stopper trimmed to be about 1/16" longer than the distance between the back of the wheel and the end of the splined column. Results in just a bit of constant compression with the wheel installed. A trick I learned from an old racer to reduce the annoying 'sizzle' due to vibration in high rpm formula cars. Btw-because of it's taper, once inserted through the splines the stopper is captive behind the wheel."

Cool mod...love to see pics if you would share...


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I'm going to have to do a drawing I guess. I tried to photograph, but the stopper is only visible through the splines on the wheel mounted adaptor when the wheel is removed-so a black rubber stopper in a deep dark hole-not good for photos. Basically it's just a rubber spacer between the end of the steering shaft and the next most solid thing in the assembly.

So another try at a word description: imagine: take the wheel off, and stick a rubber stopper on the end of the steering shaft, widest end of the stopper on the shaft. Stopper length need to be somewhat longer (like 1/16" to maybe an 1/8") than the distance from the end of the shaft to the backside of the steering wheel (or a spacer if that spacer has a solid center). Now slide the steering wheel with QR over the stopper and the shaft splines. You will have to exert just a little bit of force at the end to get the wheel to click into place. Except in my case, because the stopper was a bit wider than the internal splines on the QR, I pushed it through before seating the wheel. Once through the splines, the stopper expanded and remains trapped in place just past the end of the female splines.

To measure the required length of the spacer/stopper, remove the wheel from the QR and reinstall the QR to the shaft. Measure the distance from the wheel mounting surface of the QR to the end of the steering shaft. If applicable, add the thickness of any wheel spacer, only if it's one with a hollow center. Otherwise use the first measurement.

Keep in mind the material selected for the spacer, and hence it's compressibility, will determine the spacer length. Some experimentation may be required. And don't make the effort to seat the wheel too high or you may not get it fully seated.

To be clear, this does not actually eliminate all wheel movement, but rather it diminishes and dampens it to the extent you don't notice it anymore. And it's 'cheap as chips' as the U.K folks say.

And for the high anxiety types, no, the slight pressure will not cause the wheel to come loose. Only movement of the locking collar can do that. The locking ball method of retention is well proven over decades in motor racing and is very robust, unless of course you don't seat the wheel properly in the first place.


Last edited by Bitsobrits; 16/07/20 06:22 PM.

Steve
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So an attempt at a photo, but it just shows the end of the stopper with an imprint of the end of the steering shaft.

[Linked Image]


Steve
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Very cool very novel steering vibration fix 👍🏼. I have a M3w with a Brooklands and a 1” aluminum spacer mounted on the QR hub . I have ( had ) really bad steering wheel vibration and Buzz. Mostly lower speeds during acceleration or deceleration. I’ve looked at the very various advice . Like my steering vibration being loose spark plug wires ? Lol or a loose steering something ? If there even is a “ something “ lol . Here’s my tried and true advice. I put a 1/4 thick hard rubber spacer between my brooklands wheel and my aluminum 1” thick spacer . 98% of my vibration is gone ! I don’t know why a very effective , very isolating rubber spacer was not suggested. Technically it’s makes the absolute most sense . I loved the rubber cap idea 👍🏼 Because it addresses the QR “ float /play” problem . I did not do tape or anything else . Problem solved . Also the QR is a safety nightmare . My guess is that 97% of M3w owners Never remove their steering wheel. I blocked out my QR , no need for it or safety and theft issue . I had my wheel only partially locked in place the other day . Did someone mess with it ? Was is not out in correct when serviced ?
Either way - had I touched or fooled with it In the slightest I would have been going down road at 85 with a steering wheel in my hand that was NOT attached to my vehicle . QR is a problematic joke .. or worse . Lol 😝

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