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#625194 23/03/20 02:13 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
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mfg Offline OP
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I drive a 1971 4/4 Competition which I purchased, as seen, from the local Morgan dealer in April 2012. Have spent relatively little and have never really been let down.
There is one persistent issue. A clunk in the drive train particularly when you go on and off the accelerator at low speeds.
I’ve spoken to several people and been given various diagnoses: Differential, prop-shaft, axle shaft key, splines.
Prop and diff seem to be OK and diff will be checked when simmering is replaced in the near future.
Worn splines seem to be favourite for the fault. Fault disappears when wheels are freshly tightened but soon reappears within 10’s of km. When off the ground if foot brake is applied the wheels can still be rotated a few degrees in either direction without the brake drum moving. If we’re not mistaken this can only be due worn splines or could the wheel be loosening slightly for some other reason??
If it is splines, will it be necessary to replace stub axles and wheels, stub axles alone or wheels alone!
Any comments very much appreciated.
Thanks !

mfg #625197 23/03/20 02:23 PM
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Sounds like the splines . sorry I have no idea what you do next. GoMog has a few items on it.
https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/wirewheelbalancing.html
https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/wheelsindex.htm


MWS maybe can help. I used them in the past & they were very helpful.
http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentChapterView.asp?chapter=6


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
mfg #625199 23/03/20 02:36 PM
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You should be able to physically check the splines on the hub and wheel..they will likely have sharp knife like edges if worn. If you have 'backlash' with the drum and hub stationary then it sounds like splines.

My Healey had the clunk and i replaced the hubs only, the wheel splines looked fine which surprised me as i though the wheels may be softer than the hubs. It cured the clunk.


Steve
mfg #625248 23/03/20 04:36 PM
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If it is the rear hubs and they need replacing, send me a PM and I'll send you details of where you can get very good replacements from

Arwyn

mfg #625256 23/03/20 04:59 PM
Joined: Sep 2014
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I would advise another check that you can do before committing to new hubs.

You need to investigate whether the play is excessive and where it is comes from.

Firstly take the wheels off and try to move the hubs clockwise and counterclockwise alternately. If there is more play than you expect and a "clunk" , it is likely that the woodruff key is worn , or the slot in the hub, or more likely both. If so this is likely to be the answer. I don't know if a good machinist would be able to machine out an oversized slot in the (and half shaft?) and hub, but this could be a solution. Arwyn or others should be able to advise. Otherwise it looks like new hubs from Arywn's contact.

If the play in the hub seems "normal" then it is possible that the splines on the wheel have worn, but it is also possible that the splines on the hub are also worn (like Steve I thought the hubs should be stronger than the wheels ?) However in the 70s I remember Allon White replacing the hubs on my +4 racer and it also solved the problem as I used the same wheels again . If the play does emanate from here , try packing it with grease and see if this makes any difference. If so it is likely the problem lies in this area.

Last edited by MOG 615; 23/03/20 04:59 PM.

Andy G
1999 +8 , Indigo Blue.
Ex-John McKecknie/Mike Duncan 1955 +4 racer.
mfg #625448 24/03/20 10:55 AM
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Many thanks for all your comments. This was most helpful.

Arwyn, thanks for the offer I'll be in touch!


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