Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) 2016 Roadster multiple erros on ECU

Chaps, an update - this is turning a bit strange - any advice please. OK all oygen sensors are disconnected and the fuse is still blowing. BUT when all this happened I was also getting P0010 and P0020 which are Camshaft position Actuator circuit bank 1 & 2. Now the thing is , I can't see from a wiring diagram how these are connected to the same fuse . However, that's not to say the wiring diagram isn't complete. So my question is does anyone have actuator / camshaft sensor wiring diagrams or looking at Richard's diagram further up , I'm think that PIN41 might have something to do with it as , even with all the sensors disconnected there is still a link from the fuse box to pin 41. I think this is now not straightforward!! I haven't disconnected the camshaft sensors yet as I really need to understand the wiring first. Thanks , Worried from London!

Fairly sure pin 41 to PCM is a red herring as it's a common return for the downstream O2 sensor's which you have already isolated, and no connection with fuse 13 feed. Ditto fault codes which would be expected once fuse 13 blows.

I would now be looking at the purge valve and cam solenoids themselves (not their sensors), which ironically was my first suggestion in thread here. These are fed directly by engine fuse 13, and any one could develop an internal short I guess. The former, although not sure of its location, can easily be isolated by breaking engine loom connector C144 (light green and white/brown wires) so maybe a good starting point.



You haven't explained yet the conditions under which fuse 13 is blowing. Is it just after turning on ignition, with engine running or when revved? If the former then it should be easy to check for fuse blowing without essential stuff connected. Multiway connector C58 on engine loom supplies power to everything mentioned above so would be another isolation point.

Richard what a great help you are. OK I'm feeling more positive having seen this drawing . I wondered where the second wire on the non power side of the fuse went - I could just see it disappear into C58 ! OK so it looks like I've only isolated 4 out of 9 options. Now I know where it goes I'll disconnect / them and see where it goes.

In answer to your question 'under what conditions does the fuse blow'. Very good question. When I change the fuse and start the car it seems fine , when I drive , by the time I've got home it may have blown. But if I start the car from warm I get the impression (although I've only gone through 3 fuses so far) it can blow. My instinct is telling me it could be engine temperature related - ie if everything is hot there is a greater propensity for it to blow . As I said I've only gone through 3, but it almost feels like there is a short when it is hot. I've got a load of fuses arriving and then I will let the car warm up. Stop it and then start it again - I have a feeling this will blow the fuse. If this happens ,which I hope iy does , I will then disconnect the solenoids (and purge valve) and see what happens next.

BTW - where is the purge valve? I've never had a any reason to really go and look for it !!

Please could you let me know how I could get hold of those diagrams. I've always been a bit apprehensive with the wiring on the Mogs. All of the ones I've owned at some point in their lives have had electrical issues. the roadster has always made me nervous , it has a lot of electrics to go wrong. I use mine every day , wind , rain , ice (when I feel brave) .,

Thanks again for taking the time to help me.

Sorry RD&G don't know location of purge valve. The parts book doesn't show it located near the fuel tank, just a thin hose from charcoal cannister presumably leading to it.

All the wiring diagram's are in the Classics parts book 2014 on, which covers 4/4, Plus 4 and 3.7 V6 Roadster. I gave you a link to the pdf file, did you manage to download it? If not try again clicking on Download which will invite you to log in via social media options before you get an actual Free Download option - sorry about adds

Unfortunately the manner in which the fuse blows doesn' t help with a quick answer so you may have to stick with it and keep isolating and testing, armed with a box of 15 amp fuses. If you can isolate the purge valve via its two wire connector C144 that should be an easy start. Its shown as connecting to engine loom so that narrows which end of car to look.

Just found this video on changing purge valve which should help in identifying and temporarily disconnecting electrically
https://youtu.be/hC0ZktiPFZM

Note this is for V6 Mustang 2011-2014 which has throttle inlet facing forward rather than rearward as on our cars, but should still help.

ETA: Better still just found this pic in my archives.



Purge valve in foreground immediately downstream of throttle behind. Connector C145 clearly visible, not C144 other end of sub loom, but takes the valve itself out of the loop. This will probably throw up extra fault codes when disconnected though.

Richard & John , thanks so much for all your help!! A wiring diagram and a parts book really does help. OK , So richard you are right , I've disconnected all 4 actuators and hey presto no more blowing fuse and the car runs smoother . Ive checked the resistance on all four actuator and they are all coming back at around 7.5 ohms - I was hoping one would be different. The fact is , we now know its one of the actuators. In your Guru capacity - is there one that anecdotally goes first? I know I can now resolve the issue, its just a case of isolating which one is the culprit - and knowing my luck it will be the last one I check. With COVID19 I obviously can t keep taking the car out , so I suppose I can warm him up and then plug each one in it turn, reving the engine each time.

Is changing them relatively straightforward or is there something I should know??

Richard, BTW I used to spend a lot of my time in Bressingham at the steam museum - I'm sure you would have gone there!

Thanks again

David

Very pleased you've now been able to identify the source of the issue David. Definitely not a guru BTW, geek maybe who loves delving into what info is out there, given I have a vested interest as owner myself. FWIW it was a pure shot in the dark that I suggested looking at cam solenoids in the first place, but the wiring looked vulnerable.

Unfortunately I have no idea which cam solenoid is likely to be the cause of issue. From an electrical point although the resistance of each measures the same, one could give a path to earth, but probably only when energised, hence reason the fuse doesn't blow immediately. Nevertheless you could measure for resistance to earth/chassis on each. I would expect they are isolated from same though, so as with your thoughts, replacing connections one by one until culprit is found may be next path. Good news is once you have identified it, replacements seem to be in the order of £30 or so.

The fact that running is now improved suggests that maybe one is/was sticking.

Reaching out to Mustang forums or dealers to see if this is an issue is another suggestion.

ETA: yes Bressingham is a popular local venue for me. Particularly enjoy the steam model weekend beginning of May although not this year

Will do. I suspect they are isolated to , especially looking at the wiring diagram. Any ideas where to buy them??
FYI , I'll do digging around and will report back video links/ suppliers and part numbers. Clearly I'll get the direct for replacement.
Thanks again

Yes, keep us updated on the final fix

This gentleman knows an awful lot about Morgan's I'd ping him an email via Sarah, they are a brilliant and most helpful dealership this invitation appeared on their FB site yesterday.

Sometimes a little professional engineering input can save you a load of poking around in the dark, chances are he will have seen it before.