Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Diagnosis please?

The 450 page Car Builder Solutions catalogue is certainly well worth getting for nothing. It contains loads of stuff I didn't realise I needed.

Been recommending CBS for years (no financial connection BTW)

NC for a BRAKE LIGHT switch..?

If the pedal holds it open when not pressed. Pedal pressed = switch “relaxes” to NC position.

Having spent my career in the electronics industry I am comfortable with the terms but it struck me that a lot of others are not so I found this simple guide for those not so comfortable with electrickery and hope it helps Switch Guide

Yes as suggested previously NC can effectively become NO by mechanical position and actuation. Indeed it's the only failsafe solution given variations in brake pedal travel.

Just ordered this switch 1213A NO and in reserve for the brake light a 1212A NC because the switches are cheaper than the shipping.
https://www.reichelt.de/drucktaster-4a-250vac-1x-ein-t-1213-a-p105699.html

BTW A stands for Argentum, it is able to carry the double current than a C version which is Silver plated Copper only. We do not have to switch 250V at 4A but the lifespan should be longer than the C type even when used with weak current.

Not that it matters in this case as current to be switched is probably extremely low.
But for sake of accuracy and interest, the design and ratings of ac and DC switches are quite different. When a switch interrupts a circuit, it has to deal with arcing across the contacts. With a.c. there is a voltage zero 100 times every second on a 50 Hz system, so the arcing is easier to extinguish. Contact gaps on an a.c. switch are usually quite small (micro gaps) and are often operated by a simple rocking device (e.g. like your light switch at home) for that reason.
However, DC voltage is constant and when interrupted will tend to arc until the contact gap is large enough for the arcing to collapse. That’s why DC switches tend to be toggle type or snap action with much larger contact gaps and a speedier separation.
.So if you use an a.c. switch on a DC circuit, the amperage rating will be considerably reduced from what was quoted for a.c. use.
As I said above, the switching duty in this case is merely a gnat’s whisker anyway.

Latest bulletin. I have not yet fitted the new switch. I have made several essential journeys, when the car got up to temperature, and the problem did not occur. The car felt really sharp, but that might be the Williams re-map , I‘ve probably forgotten what it was like before.
So, I won’t fit the switch until it occurs again . According to Murphy’s Law, that will be tomorrow.

Ok so here we are tomorrow:
I can report that:-
On 40 mile trips the problem does not occurAfter 80 miles it does occur (Even with an hour’s break in the journey)
So, does this reinforce the idea that the ecu begins to react to a faulty BPS after 80 miles, but resets after a spell in the garage? Seems rather Orwellian.
What other.explanation ?
Today’s routine:
Drive the car cold and see if the problem has stayed overnight
Change the BPS
Quick shakedown
Large gin and tonic