Talk Morgan Forums Community The Malvern Arms A Taste of Italy

Taròz

Even today every area of Italy has its own distinct dialect and foods. In the cities this is perhaps only partially true but as many no longer speak the local dialect but in the country dialect can change from one valley to the next. Bergamasco, which is spoken only 30 kilometers from Mandello, is really a different language. In that sense most Italians from country regions have grown up speaking a dialect at home and Italian at school. Most cities retain the principal food traditions of the region but many are slowly being lost. Taròz is one such recipe that is perhaps in danger of being lost but is still used in many different variations by people in the Valtellina, a valley that runs parallel to the Swiss border north of Lake Como. It is important to this dish to have the correct type of cheese. Latteria is literally “dairy” cheese and as such it also varies enormously from region to region. I would recommend two variations of the same type of cheese but one is ok. The first is a mature cheese a little like a Parmesan cheese but not so hard or sharp tasting. The second is a younger softer cheese that has a milder taste. The equivalents in cheddar would be tasty and mild but somehow cheddar does not have the right flavour and you need to seek something a little more Italian in style and not too fatty. One important item is that whatever cheese you choose needs to melt well to a creamy consistency and not turn into a chewy lump. A word of warning however: this is not a low cholesterol dish. Taròz can be a vegetarian main course in itself or can be served as an accompaniment to a main course.

Taròz (the basic version)
Serves 4
500 gm potatoes
500 gm green beans
200 gm slightly mature cheese or 150 gm each of a mild and a mature cheese
1 onion
150 gm butter
salt and pepper to taste

Boil the peeled potatoes and the green beans together in a pot. When cooked drain most the water and roughly mash the beans and potatoes together to form a coarse puree. This should be somewhat coarser than the normal mashed potatoes. In the mean time chop the cheese into 1 cm cubes (or fine slices) and slice the onion and slowly soften it in the butter over a low heat until golden.

Add a layer of the hot mash to the bottom of a deep buttered dish and place some of the cheese on top. Continue to add layers of potato and cheese until the last layer which should be potato only. Pour the butter and onions over the dish. If necessary reheat and bring to the table.

Variations include; substituting some of the cheese with the stronger tasting Parmesan cheese, substituting some of the potato with, or adding, a can of Borlotti beans (large white Italian beans), substituting the onion with, or adding, some cloves of garlic to the butter whilst it is melting (garlic is removed before the butter is added to the dish), adding chopped bacon to the mash or cooking chopped bacon together with the onions, substituting some or all of the butter with olive oil.

Our favourite variation is to make the basic recipe of potato beans and two types of local cheese. We then add the potato and cheese layers to an oven dish. We pour some butter in which has been gently fried some garlic (so that the flavour has been taken up by the butter). Over the top is sprinkled a generous amount grated Parmesan. The dish is then placed under in the oven to re-heat and gently brown the top.

Taròz is served hot.

That is a wonderful dish!

Wonderful repas

Any more local dishes Peter?

Yes. The problem is to think of things that can be made with relatively easily obtained ingredients. I have a couple of things in mind so I will add something to the thread from time to time.

By the way the name "Taròz" rhymes with rots and the "a" as in tar: more or less ta-rots

When I went to India I had the de trots

Last night we had this for dinner:



It is a fish from the lake, a Lavarello (lavoret or lake whitefish) of 1.25 kg after being cleaned. Our local professional fisherman caught it in his net and offered it to us. Normally we have them about one fifth of the size. Fillets are normally floured, ans fried in butter with sage. This was too big to be fried the last one we had that was nearly this big we baked but this was too big for the baking dish so it was seemed in a special fish steamer.

Absolutely delicious but I think I preferred is baked as the steaming left it a little delicate in flavour by comparision.

Bravo Peter!! Looks delicious!!

Pasta with Broccoli

Anyone who watches Italian films on TV would know of the series of police films involving, as the principal character, Commissioner Salvo Montabano. The films follow a successful series of novels published by the Sicilian writer Andrea Camilleri. The novels are characterised by beautiful Sicilian settings and the use of an Italian language strongly flavoured by elements of Sicilian dialect. Camilleri spices his stories with detailed descriptions of meals, often including references to the preparation of the food. The descriptions are so real that your mouth starts to water.

Montalbano does not cook but is very appreciative of the meals left in the fridge or oven by Adelina, the lady who cleans the house for him. At lunchtime almost every day he goes to a favourite restaurant or trattoria and usually manages to tuck away a huge meal. Sicily is well known for its many small restaurants and trattorias where you may eat exceptional meals at reasonable prices. I can strongly recommend a visit to beautiful Sicily, but please avoid the hottest months of July and August. Apart from the heat it is the Italian summer holiday period and the prices are always much higher during this period.

I have recently purchased a book by Stefania Campo entitled “I segreti della tavola di Montalbano” (The secrets of Montalbano's table). In this book the author has researched the many recipes referred to by Camilleri in his novels. Many have ingredients that may be difficult to find but the following is not only simple but extremely tasty.

I should start by saying that in the Sicilian dialect broccoli is the word used for cauliflower so this recipe is actually for pasta with cauliflower. What we call broccoli is called broccoletti in Sicily, or in dialect Siciliano “sparaciddato”. It is one of the oldest vegetables cultivated by man and is rich in important nutritive elements. It is also believed to be a great aid in the prevention of some forms of cancer. Having said all that I have made this recipe with cauliflower, broccoli, and most successfully with cauliflower 'Romanesco' which has heads that are lime green with pointed, spiralled pinnacles. It is a strange looking thing but has more flavour than an ordinary white cauliflower.

A pasta dish, such as this, would be considered a first course in Italy. It would then be followed by a fish or meat dish, often without or with only one vegetable such as potatoes, and then a sweet. Bread is always provided with the meal.

Pasta with Broccoli

Ingredients

(for 4 people)

400 gr. macaroni, spirals, or any large pasta such as Rigatoni or Garganelli
1 cauliflower of about 1 kilo (or broccoli)
30 gr. pine nuts
40 gr. seedless sultanas
2 salted anchovies (if salted are unavailable use anchovies in oil)
1 packet of saffron
1 medium onion sliced finely
olive oil, pepper and salt.

Method

Cut the cauliflower (or broccoli) into small pieces and boil in abundant salted water. When nearly cooked remove the cauliflower and reserve the water for cooking the pasta.

While the cauliflower is cooking sauté the onion in a large pan with abundant oil. Add the pine nuts, sultanas, and the saffron after dissolving it in a small amount of tepid water. Leave it for a few moments to combine the flavours and then add the pieces of cauliflower. (At this point you could start cooking the pasta in the boiling cauliflower water.) Turn the flame up high, add pepper and salt to taste and finally add a ladle of the water used to cook the cauliflower.

When the pasta is cooked “al dente” (this means it should still be firm in the centre of the pasta) drain and combine with the prepared cauliflower. Leave to “rest” for about 10 minutes.

While waiting Montalbano would enjoy an antipasto of green olives, Caciocavallo (a mild cheese, in the form of a gourd, that has a waxy consistency) and passuluna (salt cured black olives seasoned with oil, oregano, and perhaps a few garlic cloves).

Pasta with Broccoli can be served tepid or, if desired, returned to the flame for a moment to bring to a warm serving temperature.

A mild cheese can be grated over the pasta when served. Do not add parmesan as the strong cheese flavour would overpower the delicate flavours of the dish. A little extra vergin olive oil can be drizzled over the pasta when serving.

Optionally, instead of the saffron a spoonful of tomato concentrate can be used. In Sicily it is not unusual for a handful of toasted bread crumbs (tosted in a pan with a smear of olive oil) to be added just before serving or sprinkled over the top when served. This adds a little extra flavour and "crunch" to the dish.

Enjoy with a glass of crisp white wine.