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My 4/4 has that wire. Also trapped under the seat runner. It is the seat belt warning light. Good thing is that the light is off with it disconnected. (It got trapped after changing the handbrake cable. )


4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
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Not a bad outcome as you have learnt more about your car, just a note, don’t over tighten the seat mounting bolts, the reason the factory leave them loose is because there is a bolt head sticking out underneath the lowest bar and if you pull the nuts and bolts up tight it bows the frame and makes sliding the seat back and forth very difficult.

Of course the correct fix is to drill ‘pocket’s’ in the floorboards (2 per side) through the carpet so the bolt head doesn’t come into play, but it’s difficult so of course MMC don’t bother doing it as it takes all of 3 minutes a side with masking tape and a flat 1/2” wood drill!

BR
Colin


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I both filed down the exposed thread from this bolt, as you only have to accommodate nut then, and drilled shallow pockets for latter through carpet and just a little into wood. Easy to see where as obvious witness marks.


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Nice progress. Well done.


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I have a 2012 Plus 4 and although I am a mere 6 foot I have very long legs that require the seat to be all the way back. There is a little space behind the base of the seat but with the seat back inclination that I prefer there is probably only half an inch, if anything at all, between the seat back and the vertical front of the cover that encloses the diff and suspension components. Shifting the runners back would not gain me anything with my car.


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I want to lower the seats in our 2007 4 seater but can’t and the leaf spring shackle cover prevents it. Given post 2008 it is mounted directly to the floor without spacers, did this also apply to 4 seaters?

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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler
Not a bad outcome as you have learnt more about your car, just a note, don’t over tighten the seat mounting bolts, the reason the factory leave them loose is because there is a bolt head sticking out underneath the lowest bar and if you pull the nuts and bolts up tight it bows the frame and makes sliding the seat back and forth very difficult.

Of course the correct fix is to drill ‘pocket’s’ in the floorboards (2 per side) through the carpet so the bolt head doesn’t come into play, but it’s difficult so of course MMC don’t bother doing it as it takes all of 3 minutes a side with masking tape and a flat 1/2” wood drill!

BR
Colin

A bit shoddy, isn't it?

I don't have any problem with the seat height but it annoys me that the runner is mounted with protruding nuts that can cause the runner to be distorted when the seat is bolted in. The next time I have to take the seats out for any reason I will fit a hardwood or plastic spacer under the runners that will have exactly the same thickness as the height of the protruding nuts. I will drill ample holes in them to fit over the nuts. My reasoning is that this will not actually raise the seat as it is already being held up by the nuts but it will allow the seat to be mounted without risk of distorting the runners. The aim is, of course, to get smooth functioning of the seat runners.

By the way be careful not to short out the seatbelt wire where it passes through the transmission tunnel. It can cause a fuse to blow and if you don't realise what is causing it can be difficult to trace smile


Peter

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