Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Anyone moved seat runners back = more legroom ?

Find the 2011 +4 a little tight on legroom, being just shy of 6 ft. Seat is fully back, yet when I look down back of the seat there appears to be a good 3” space before hitting rear bulkhead (not sure if right term ). See photo below



Roughly same gap for back of seat all the way up.

So before I remove the seat, has anyone looked to move seat runner back before ? Easy mod ?

If you look underneath there is a box section chassis rail in that area. So you can just drill into that but I would have thought you could find a way to drill new holes into the floor boards.

Check the outsides of the rear “foot wells” on mine the leaf springs are boxed in here so the seat may not be able to go too far back before the underside starts to rub on this.

Thanks.



Good advice. Just checked and that box section is at bottom of my photo, however after feeling under seat to where boxing ends there is clearance. It’s as if the seat has been designed to go fully back over that section.

Sort the patio today or get the spanner’s out

Done it on several cars, the outer ‘issue’ is the seat frame hitting the cover over the rear spring front shackle, I worked in my then new 2008 +4 with Shaun at Allon Whites where I removed and cut the top off the covers and he made a leather ‘gaiter’ to fit, just to stop water and dirt ingress a little as there is a large hole there anyway and the MMC don’t seal the covers anyway so mainly this was to make us feel better as it was a neater job. The next issue is the inboard side of the seat frames hit the large cast safety cover over the rear prop shaft UJ (it’s there incase the rear UJ explodes apparently but never seen that after 50 years in the trade!) that’s a bigger issue do we went as far back as we could. I am 6’ 3” so needed every inch we could get. I thought of cutting and stepping in the seat frame but decided not to as the frame doesn’t look that resilient. We did consider removing the seat cover, heating the lower corner of the frame and impact engineering (hit with hammer) the frame across an inch.

That should help enormously but I also spotted the column height is restricted by the steering column cowl hitting the dash, if you cut a post box style slot in the top of the plastic cover and add a piece of leather you can get another half inch above your knees!

Every bit helps!

BR
Colin

Leave the patio, it’s not that bad yet, I’m more curious about your seat project, chop,chop!

I lowered the driver’s side seat on mine by replacing the wooden bases with thinner ones. The seat does hit the cover for the leafspring shackles though. One mod I did was to replace the hex head bolts with socket heads as getting sockets/spanners in there was a pain. I then cut the shanks back after fixing as they were sticking out under the car a bit. I also put loops on the seat adjuster bar as the lowering meant jammed fingers against the chassis rail when pulling the seat forward.
The lowering gave a smidgen more legroom under the steering wheel.
didn’t want her side lowered so it is standard fit.

Sooooooooo. As suggested 2 sets of bolts at front 1 set at rear. Everyone was only hand tight ! So anyway all removed and trying to get seat out from car found there was wire running from transmission tunnel to rise of seat runner. Could find no way of of releasing it from runner and no idea what it ps function was , so cut the wires with intention to add connectors when putting back together

So photos of underside of the seat





With the long plates removed.



Here you can see the seat is designed to go over box section of suspension



With it near all apart I could see how I could move runners without drilling extra holes etc. Pressed the release bar to move runners to get to last bolts and found 1 runner extended much further than other. With the runners disassembled I could now get to see what the wiring was for.

Now at this point I could have sworn. The effing wiring connector had jammed itself solid into the runner and was the whole reason the seat wouldn’t go back far enough !!. Instead I just laughed at situation,and eased the culprit out.

I couldn’t have removed it with seat is situ, and I also found bolts to floor and cross member needed tightening any water . Also got to hoover the carpet under the seat

So apologies, a 2011 seat works perfectly as long as not jammed by this little culprit ....

Mystery wire.

Don't know what features later mogs have but could it be to tell the car there's a bum on seat for the seatbelt warning light ?

Could be for a heated seat or the ejection seat ....not ruling anything out ..... that's a tough plastic plug if it could stop the slide of a grown man in its tracks without busting!

K

Or could it be for the LED footwell lighting ?