Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Uneven tire wear

So how are you getting and “overhang” with the aluminum flanges on both sides of the rear sprocket?

With the Supermax overlay conversion there is only a flange on the wheel side of the sprocket.

That is lucky, maybe. I have been trying to center the belt and to say it is tricky would be a gross understatement.

Removed the flange 3 years ago, as the belt was rubbing against it and screeching like crazy...

Don't get hung up trying to centre the belt. I have the Supermax sprocket and the belt runs up to 1/8" overhang with on detriment and has done fo 20,000 miles.

Best bit of advice I think hbats.

To get the drive belt running evenly on the sprockets and not hard up against any of the guides, the sprockets should be in alignment. To achieve correct alignment you need to have the swing arm adjusted so that the bevel box sprocket is almost touching the swing arm LH bearing housing, just 2 or 3mm clearance. Many cars come from the factory with the plastic bung missing from the bearing housing to achieve this but that destroys the bearings with corrosion and dirt.....after the warranty has run out.

Mine ran perfectly between the flanges from the factory and the only times it wasn’t is when I had to remove the belt to change a tire or pull the bevel box and it took a bit of patience to get it correct again.

I will check to see if the plastic bung is missing or not,; good tip Planenut👍

I stopped by the motorcycle shop today to order some new front tires and was explaining the wear problem to them. They came up with an idea that the rear wheel is out of alignment with the front wheels. That makes the car go down the road “sideways” scrubbing the right front tire. It wouldn’t be noticeable while driving.

Now my question is how do I align the rear wheel ?

First part; you need to remove the split pin and slacken the wheel spindle (36mm nut, other end of spindle is 24mm), back off the adjusters (17mm spanner required) and get the wheel pushed forward so that the belt is slack.
Next; put a bit of tension on the spindle nut so that it is gripping the swing arm legs a bit but can still be moved by the adjusters.
Use the adjusters to pull the wheel backwards a bit with the aim being to get the gap between the furthest forward part of the adjuster plate and the cutaway of the swing arm the same on both sides with the belt fairly slack. This isn't easy to judge! small calipers or something similar to gauge the gaps and get them equal are very useful for this. Once you are happy that both sides are equal then start moving the wheel backwards evenly on both sides till the belt is coming up to correct tension. You might want to tighten the spindle a little bit more as it approaches the final position just to avoid it moving out of line when finally tightened.
Once the belt is tight and both sides are still even, tighten the spindle nut. Torque required is "tight with a capital F" and then a bit tighter to align the castellations with the hole for the split pin.
Check that both sides are still even and get the split pin back in (or replace with an R-clip)
That will put the wheel spindle (and hence the wheel and sprocket) in correct alignment with the swingarm spindle. Depending on who assembled your three wheeler there may still be a step between the front and rear sprockets which can be corrected by moving the swingarm sideways on its adjusters if necessary; this gets a bit more involved and needs seats and bulkhead removal and some effort with a straight edge.

That is good assuming the swing arms are all built millimetre perfect, which they don't generally seem to be. Alternatively you can laser align the rear wheel, full instructions are on the MTWC website. You can PM me if you would like a copy of the instructions. Agreed that some effort with a straight edge is needed to get the sprockets aligned, the swing arm needs to be almost touching the BB sprocket for correct alignment with a black hub.