Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Start button & speedo not working!! Very Strange

Hello Everyone - I wonder if anyone has come across this problem before?

Occasionally in recent months my car would not start - nothing happened when I pushed the start button (didn't notice at this time if the speedo display was active or not). To remedy this I would have to turn the car off, leave it a few seconds & go through the start sequence again - generally it would turn over & start 2nd or 3rd time. Once running everything was fine.

For the last 2 weeks I have been trying to get it to fire - without success generally. It has started a couple of times but only after I have pressed the horn! having gone through the start sequence. This seemed to have woken the speedo & start button - but only for a few seconds before the connection is lost again.

I have looked at all the connections etc - and all seem good,
I have replaced the battery (no difference)

My car is fitted with an immobiliser - I suspect this is the culprit. I can see the pin out details form the parts list, and have located the item. I have seen a post suggesting that Morgan supply an "immobiliser bypass connector" on new cars equipped with an immobiliser
Regrettably I don't have one of these - I called the factory on Tuesday to attempt to buy one, only to find that they are closed.

Does anyone have a plug they can loan me - just to establish it is my problem. Alternatively has anyone been brave enough to make their own connections between the Inns & Outs according to the parts list.

Presumably if I just connect the in/outs together I will bypass the potentially faulty immobiliser?

Everything else on the dash works apart from the speedo display & illumination and the illumination/function of the start button.

Any help or guidance you can give is greatly appreciated (again).

Regards
Andrew

I have a spare immobiliser jumper plug, if you PM me your details I will send it to you.

Here is a snapshot of the relevant part of chassis wiring loom.



The shorting plug if no immobiliser fitted is shown bottom right with pinouts used. If you look at the matching cable numbers you can work out the four circuit loops that need to be made (two start and two coil ccts) for the plug to function. As fuse 3 supplies 12v to immobiliser you could check that too.

Sometimes i have to wave the transponder about near the ignition switch to get the immobiliser to disarm on my car.

Im assuming you've tried the spare key in case its the key thats faulty

I found my immobiliser fob was very intermittant to use as well due to the difficulty of trying to turn the key and hold the fob at the same time - though I have recently discovered a new technique to starting.
If you turn the ignition key all the way on ( so the red light stays on permanently indicating the immobiliser is still active) , then hold the fob in the required position to deactivate as a second action, I can deactivate first time almost 100% of the time with no stress.
So try starting in three phases 1) turn the key all the way and let go , 2) grab the fob and position to turn the red light out, 3) push the fun button.

Sorry - just realised I have posted this on a thread about an electrical fault - oops

Thanks everyone,

Your fast responses are most welcome.
Planenut - I have PM'd my details
Richard Wood - Thanks I have a copy of the wiring detail - the fuses are OK, the power to the immobiliser seems to function OK, its just that it doesn't seem to be releasing the starter motor.
Obie - the transponder seems to work, I do have to wave the fob close to the steering cowl antenna - its always been this way.
RobCol - yes I have tried the spare key/fob.
Nippymog - Also yes - this is the starting procedure I have always used (3 steps Ignition on, fob to disarm - you can hear it click, press the fun button).

Fingers crossed on planenut's bypass plug.
Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks again everyone.

I seem to remember that a flaky Indicator Module can also cause starting issues with weird symptoms?

Thanks Bunny - I have read this also (on TM) this was next on my list - but need MMC parts department to be open to purchase a new one, so I am rather hoping the immobiliser bypass will fix it.

Thanks for your response

Regards
Andrew

If anyone has a source for the immobiliser connector's a spare (assume male) plug could be purchased and the links added as per diagram.

Another thought given the TOAD immobiliser is an optional but popular extra. There must be a pile of discarded shorting plugs around at the factory, assuming loom is supplied with them fitted as wiring diagram suggests.