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Joined: Mar 2009
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Smile, it confuses them
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I agree. Bad weather on the motorway and a mass of black/grey/silver cars. Perfect combo for an error by those twonks not paying attention.

I was behind a nice new green Defender/scovery 110 today and the size of the rear brake lights is tiny. It may look pretty but I really do wonder if this is not one step too far.


Everyone loves a Morgan. Even me, unless it's broken again.
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Originally Posted by Gambalunga
I have never understood why DRLs are only at the front of the car. These days they can be so bright that many going into tunnels don't realise that they have not turned on their headlights. Consequently they can be in the dark without tail lights.


Yes, seems odd. I have had DRLs on my cars since my first SAABs and Volvos in the '80s and 90s and couldn't tell you confidently now whether rear lights were incorporated, although I thought that they were. My latest Volvo is switched to automatic lighting and I actually don't know what goes on and off with the driving conditions. I guess that I am just assuming that the best combination is selected at any one time. I have noticed that the automatic dipping facility is very sensitive and reacts as quickly, if not quicker, than I would do. I imagine that most people set their lights to the automatic settings now and don't need to think about the transition to tunnels.


Rob T
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I must confess to not being a fan of having the rear lights on under normal conditions particularly in a vulnerable trad. They reduce the noticeability of the brake lights when you do need them.

Originally Posted by Eurosystem0
In terms of an ignition on live take off point any suggestions for an easy to get at scotch lock wire?

Nice work Ian. I think I might have gone down this road had I had wing lights.

If you are just looking to take a low current feed then perhaps connection I/D G44 (from the chassis harness diagram) on the wiper motor connector. It goes back to the 10A wiper fuse and on with the ignition.
[Linked Image]


Last edited by Rog; 27/08/20 07:12 PM.

Roger
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200 Series Volvo certainly ran with lights on (both front and rear). Dad;s first one was around '78/'79. Regularly showed a bulb failure warning on the dash to do with those lights, even though there wasn't a bulb fault.
I remember one of Jasper Carrot's sketches including the line "why don't they switch those bl..dy lights off" in one of his late '70s / early '80s shows. My 2008 C30 had DRL front and rear. Can't remember what sister's first 340 in early 80s did
Not sure about my 2006 Saab, will have to take a look next time I'm out in it smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Originally Posted by Rog
I must confess to not being a fan of having the rear lights on under normal conditions particularly in a vulnerable trad. They reduce the noticeability of the brake lights when you do need them.

Originally Posted by Eurosystem0
In terms of an ignition on live take off point any suggestions for an easy to get at scotch lock wire?

Nice work Ian. I think I might have gone down this road had I had wing lights.

If you are just looking to take a low current feed then perhaps connection I/D G44 (from the chassis harness diagram) on the wiper motor connector. It goes back to the 10A wiper fuse and on with the ignition.
[Linked Image]



Thanks Roger. just ordered a 12v tester so I am going to hunt around the under bonnet fuse box and certainly the wipers must be a candidate. However any source I use must be Ignition on/permanent live and not switch dependant. eg like the 12v socket in the glove box.

I have also ordered an automatic voltage sensor relay that is wired into the dimmed headlight live and reduces volts to DRL by 50% when ever dimmed headlights on. When on main beam DRL remain on.

Keep you posted.
Ian

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Just barreling along
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I suspect even with a 50% voltage drop that LED's will still be just as bright, they have a very wide operating voltage


Jon M
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The best way to dim LEDs is with a pulse-width modulation system - this turns them off and on faster than the eye can see, and dims by changing the ratio of off-time to on-time.

They are easily found, here's an example of an adjustable one, although in this application a sealed waterproof one might be better.


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Originally Posted by CooperMan
I suspect even with a 50% voltage drop that LED's will still be just as bright, they have a very wide operating voltage



If thats the case I might have to fit a relay that switches the wing mounted bullet lights off when on dipped beam.

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