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So checked a few items on the list:

1.Rear suspension brackets all good
2.Axle U-bolts another story:
-Right side outer U-bolt is bent outwards
-Also noted that the thread through nut of all four U-bolts was different with several not actually clearing the nut top at all!! (normal convention looks for at least 3 threads clear or past the nut top)

If I could work out how to paste pictures in the thread I would put them in here, any tips on that? Tried attaching but file size limited even as PDF. Also drag and drop or paste don't appear to work, using a Mac so no idea if that causes an issue.

So likely first step is replace all 4 U-Bolts, being the case:

1. Does anyone have guidance on if I can do this one U-Bolt at a time with car on floor or is there a certain procedure for replacing U-bolts?
2. Is there a torque setting for the U-bolt nuts?



Thanks
Stuart


Stuart

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Stuart,
there is some advice on Gomog but others here have also replaced their springs.
https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan27.html#Both

Have PMed you my email & if you send the pictures I'll post them.
John


JohnV6
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2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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Here are the photos. I'm no expert but that doesn't look good.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


JohnV6
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John

The article is perfect, also like the nut change recommended i.e. Stover nuts as Nylocs are good but not for this type of application. Next need to find where I can get better quality U-bolts from.

Cheers
Stuart


Stuart

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Jon M
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Brief update.

Whoever suggested “check all fasteners” was spot on. Found front prop-shaft bolts loose hence the hollow clunk sound when load taken an or off the drive train in first or second gears, now sorted. In fact found lots of loose bolts, all tight now.

Did find a bent axle u-bolt hence replaced and also put anti-tramp plate the right way around. Previous one was upside down in an attempt (I think) to avoid interference with the floor/angle section at the back of the bulk head, so cut small section of angle iron away and refitted correctly.

Cleaned springs and applied a lot of chain lube, so far seems to have worked well.

Have new radiator from SiFab that will be fitted soon as original rad. is shot.

Stuart


Stuart

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Looks like a good outcome, without too much cost too thumbs


Jon M
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Next question:)

Does anyone happen to have the specs for camber and toe-in for the 2005 Roadster? Steering is heavy to the point front setup is probably out so planning to get it to the alignment shop, but not finding any clear info on-line for the specs.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

Stuart


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StuMog, Setting up the trade is a "black Art" you need an experienced Morgan garage. When I first got my Mog the geometry was all over the place, Put it on a modern alignment set up. You could change the readings just by moving the car back an forth or bouncing it . One of the readings that changed was the camber on the rear axle. Yes impossible. it was that that alerted the operative that these cars are not like a modern car. However getting it right changes the car "fantasticaly"


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Stuart, try sending a PM to Cain he regularly sets them up .


JohnV6
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