Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Rear springs

These are the ones that PJB recommended to me:

BCC Springs

The standard leaf springs of my 2014 4/4 2 seater were much too soft. I have 4 seater leaf springs from Peter Mulberry (when he still had his business) and I am very happy with them. Today Mulfab is no longer owned by Peter.I asked the new Mulfab company for hard chromed kingpins, but Wolf performance was much faster in communication and cheaper. Maybe Cain at Wolf performance has such 4 seater springs as well, just mentioned for a price comparison.

Maybe the extra movement from the parabolic springs would be a problem given the lack of total movement we have on the Trad Mog back end.

They do work very well for some people but I was unlucky. I’ve tried both the regular 4 and 2 seater BCC springs back to back in my car. However I only did one 20 mile test drive with the 4’s before removing them.

As far as the ride goes I couldn’t really tell the differences. They were no harder or softer than each other. I understand that they are the same springs but with extra camber applied to the 4 seaters . The extra camber did raise the rear height of my lighter car which was what I was initially looking for. Unfortunately there was another issue so here is my attempt at an explanation…..

There is precious little suspension travel available on these cars so optimisation is key for getting the best performance. By raising the static ride height the bump travel is also increased. However what you gain on bump travel you lose on extension travel. So when driving over undulating surfaces I could feel the very subtle way the axle’s extension was being restricted by the rebound rubbers. It didn’t feel particularly unpleasant or intrusive but it’s just not the optimal set up. So as there was no scope to reduce the rebound rubber’s thickness the spring had to go.

Just my experience…. All cars are different and other springs are available. I would recommend that you talk it over with one of the experts first.

I'd second that.

Peter Ballard (SSL) is more than happy to chat via email and give advice and support. His guidance was invaluable when I changed my system earlier this year.

I have several things to do in winter, new hard chrome plated kingpins, new rear brakes, new rear shock absorbers just to name a few. I will definitely test it to remove the lowering blocks. On the Gomog page about the lowering blocks it is described that the geometry is better without lowering blocks and also the stability of the lateral guidance of the spring. And of course you have more suspension travel. On the picture (the grey Morgan) you can see my approx. 3 years old 4 seated leaf springs.

The car hangs down in the back.
The blue car, pictures from the net, looks right for me (regardless if she has lowering blocks or not). The black one is a bit high in the back. But both of them look more harmonious in the total addiction than my grey one. Another benefit of the 4 leaf springs: The car accelerates more directly. In comparison, you could feel with the standard spring that it had bent more before the car accelerated.

Hi Heinz

Be interested to know what the removal of the lowering blocks does to your car in terms of ride height at the rear, clearances to tyre and trans tunnel and handling. Also of course before and after side profile pictures.
Cheers JB

John, I am very excited about the future result myself. I hope that it looks visually acceptable. The physical benefits cannot be denied. These lowering blocks were only used because the 4/4 Sport from 2008 on was very light without spare wheel and bumpers. It would have been better to use other leaf springs for the 4/4. But it was obviously cheaper to use the standard springs that all Morgans had, up to the roadster. The three reasons against lowering blocks...or let me put it the other way around, the three reasons why I want to remove them:

1) Better lateral control. It's not so smart to keep the lowering blocks and add a Panhard Rod. It is easier and very effective to remove the lowering blocks and achieve a similar effect.
2) To avoid the increased leverage that occurs when the lowering block makes the leaf spring not level with the axle. This will cause the spring to bend more when the throttle is released. Here again, it is better to correct the geometry than to keep the geometry wrong and add anti tramp bars.
3) the better and bigger clearance of the leaf spring. It is no longer blocked so early by the frame when plunging.
The single measures, Panhard Rod, anti tramp bars are certainly even more effective. But it is a work around if the spring itself is not optimally positioned.

Here is a picture of my P4 SS from 2013, the last in the row. with an enlarged section. The car always looked very good. So I hope my 4/4 looks similar without lowering blocks...especially since my springs sag a bit she should not be too much lifted up.





if it doesn't look good, i can undo it or look for other springs that are less bent to get the optical effect
In any case I will report if the riding characteristics improve (they are not that bad...but the bouncing and winding of the springs is annoying). Unfortunately I don't have time for this before Christmas to do this measure.

Heinz, is that still the original height or have those 3 year old springs settled?

I would think the leaf springs have sagged. This photo below is from September 2018 and the space to the tyre is larger although the photo was taken more from above. In both pictures, the new one in the post above and this one from 2018, the car stood more or oess straight. Now the sagging would even suit it if I tried it without lowering blocks. At least the spring rate doesn't change when the spring sags. So it remains fully functional.