Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Oil pressure disaster

Great result Leroy...

Good news. My series 1 Roadster ran with oil pressure when warm around 1 bar, The water temp normally in the range 80-90 c

I think just before I had the issues it might have been around 110c. Was a comforting sight to see the pressure at 6bar when I started it up to go on the low loader. thankfully no major damage has been caused.

The only time mine hit 110c was when the wiring to the fan failed. MMC leave a long length of it flapping in the wind. It might be worth checking as the connector on mine burnt out.

I'll have a look when I get it back, hopefully this week. They tested the fan and it worked. I had to top up the header tank on way home with a couple of litres of water when the temp rocketed to about 150 which brought the temp down and also had a good effect on oil pressure, but about 5 miles later as I pulled into my street, the thermos housing cracked and water went everywhere. So for the cost of an £8 radiator cap, it's ended up costing about £500 😭

Take the white connector apart , it is on the lower cross head rail & look for damage.

It's been a few weeks since getting the mog back and everything is fine now with no issues thankfully. I'm wanting to keep my engine in a tip top condition. Its had a recent flush in the oil and coolant system, but is there anything I can add in the fuel system to give the engine internals and exhaust system a good deep clean? I used a redex additive whenever I don't use super unleaded. TIA

I always use Shell Optimax wherever possible, said to have all sorts of special additives, but who knows.

Dave, my last fill up was with esso supreme+ 99 which is meant to have twice as much cleaning additives in it, but not sure exactly how good these things are. Would like to have a product it can just put in the fuel tank, and see a nice big confirming cloud of black smoke exit the back end, followed by nothing to prove it's cleaned something.

Back in the 1960s we used to get the engine running well, good and warmed up. Then pour ReDeX in through the carburettor...the result was a cloud of reddish/black smoke and, we believed, a clean engine!
Doing that today with EFI and catalysts would do a vast amount of expensive damage.

One thing you can do to help keep the engine clean is to disconnect the crankcase breather pipe from the inlet manifold and take it to a catch pot, but you have to check how much oil there is in the catchpot every time you check the engine oil. It stops oil fumes form carbonising the back of the inlet valves.
BUT modern engines are generally built to such high tolerances that they don't blow oil out with the sump gasses and don't leak oil into the engine by the valves or the piston rings. My friend Richard has an old Series 1 Mazda MX5 that he hill climbs, tracks and generally abuses. It has about 150,000 miles on it: I was at his place when he was replacing the main bearings, failed by some excessive engine speeds but the rest of the engine internals were bright and clean.