Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing BTR axle end float

I have a 2007 plus four the end float on mine is approx 6mm. She's only covered 14000 since I bought her new. It's got progressively worse get the years. She passed the MOT but it's always put down as advisory!! I also feel she doesn't drive as well. I'm going to try the suggestions above and will report back with the result. Bertie M

Hi Guys,
I am having the same problem with my rear diff bearings and end float.
When i first refitted the new bearings with new seals there was next to no end float, now 2000miles later it has increased to about 2mm on each side. Doesn't seem right to me!
This may be a stupid question, but which way round way do the wheel bearings fit on the shaft. I have studied every drawing I can, but none seems to clearly show which way they are fitted. I have always assumed that the outer race fits in the axle shroud first and the shaft with the running bearing then fits inside of it? This allows for thrust stopping the shaft going inwards, but it makes me confused as to how the side thrust can stop the shaft from coming out under load. Doesnt seem like a good system. Normally thrust is allowed for in all expected directions.
Anyone figured this out and how to stop the end float. Looks like the rubber lip seal has become slightly squashed, therefore allowing for the end float. maybe i am using the incorrect lip seal? Anyone know the correct seal number?
Any ideas guys?

Hi Guys, anyone see my question? Not like you lot not to have a usefull comment?
I did contact a dealer that says it is nornal to fit the rubber lip seals, and it is normal after about 2000miles for there to be a 2mm end float.
Not sure I like that idea, as an ex engineer I was always tought that end float should normally be kept to a minimum.
So I was studying the lip seal that came out, and I can see that the rubber on the bearing side has disintegrated, leaving the metal iner sleeve showing. THe thickness of the rubber missing measures about the same as the end float, so I rigged up some makeshift shims (beer cans cut to size) and the shims take out the 2mm of end float.
So my conclusion is that maybe a metal backed lip seal would be more reliable. Ordered some and also ordered OEM from a Morgan dealer. Interested to see which lasts longer. Will report in 2000miles, covid allowing!!
rgds
Martin
1997 Plus 8 4.6ltr

Well Martin, only a small number of TMers have dirty fingernails.

Of those, few have messed with rear axles. My own track record is one Salisbury axle rebuild, and that was in 1990.

My own Morgan axles have a tiny amount of end-float, but nothing of consequence.

Otherwise the only source of info will be dealers or axle specialists.

That's why it's been quiet! Good luck.

Martin, for a definitive answer I suggest you contact J B Sports Engineering, they are the go-to people for Mog axle work, parts & advice

Good luck, and do post your results when you get it sorted

Try Cain at Wolf Performance. I know he was working on seals to reduce the float for race cars.

As I (probably) have the same type of axle (without LSD), this thread prompted me to think about the setup.

I've been studying the BTR diagram on GoMog and I can't for the life of me see what stops the axle shaft pulling out.

Is there a circlip behind the outer bearing or what. I can't imagine one would rely on the shaft being an interference fit into the bearing and I can't see a shoulder on the shaft behind the bearing. I guess it could just be a poor diagrammatic but It's got me flummoxed.

Also to Martin, what type of hub puller did you use to get the hub off?

Great answers, thanks Guys, I will certainly publish any useful info gained. Dirty finger nails, that's me, hahaha!

Bob, yes the drawing is very poor. The bearing inner race is held in place on the shaft by a shrink fit ring, bugger to get off and needs a good big hydraulic press to put it back on. The outer race is held in place by the Lip seal which presses against the outer race, which is pushed inwards by a bearing retaining ring. Very basic and amaizing it works. Not the way I would have designed it, but is seems to have been a successful bit of kit and is used extensively in Austrailian cars.

You dont need to get the hub off to remoce the bearngs or seal, you simply reve the entire shaft. To get the shaft out you will need slide hammer attached to the hub. Once the shaft is removed, you can then remove the hub using a hydraulic press (xmas pressy from wife!!). takes about 8 tonnes of pressure and goes with a big bang! so be very carefull and leave the nut loosely in place until it is free from the shaft. You could also use a hydraulic hub puller, you will need a big one, maybe about 15t.

Hope that helps. Feel free to ask more questions, happy to help.
Martin

Thanks for that Martin but here is where I make a fool out of myself in public because I still don't understand what retains the half shaft.

I have assumed (first mistake) that the outer bearing is a taper roller oriented to take the end thrust of the wheel pushed inwards so will not retain it if the wheel is pulled outwards.

So the bearing is not what holds the shaft in. Unless it is a ball bearing which would be a poor design given the thrust loads.

What am I missing here?

If I understood Cain correctly the outer bearing retainer distorts as you bolt it up. This leaves then a lot of float. Racers with disks on the rear I understand dab the brakes before a bend to re center the disks in the pads. with drums the float is not an issue.

I hope that helps.

Of course I could be wrong as it was a brief discussions over a mug of tea whilst we fettled my throttle pedal & i agree with you on that gomog diagram it isn't clear.. It might we worth a call to him.
Wolf