Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Oil Drain kit

That looks like you got it just in time Lightspeed. What were the hoses chaffing on? My car had similar issues and it was mainly on the RH bellhousing edge. I have replaced them using braided hoses and re-routed, securing with plenty of P Clips and cable ties. The fuel hoses at the base of the cooling fan housing are another area that seems to be bad for this, although not on your car with its modified fuel system I assume.

I did indeed! I have not located the rub points yet but given their distance form the ends of the hose the bellhousing and the frMe bracing are suspect. I tried twice by just looking for bright spots and have seen nothing. As I install the new oil tank I will get a closer look at those areas and Post a photo.

The fuel line rubbing was also discovered when I installed the new fuel system. The rubbing was on the lower edge of the on shroud. That was solved by zip ties creating a concise bundle of lines rather than a haphazard array of lines.

Here is the largest point of rubbing. I rubbed off the dirt and the shiny spot is pretty clear. If you look at the top left in the photo, around the cables, you will see ground black rubber that looks like pepper, its the supply oil hose fragments.



While tracking this rubbing hose issue and preparing to install the new oil tank I needed to remove the crank case breather hose from the engine to replace it with the new hose from the new tank. This is what I found.





Not only was the breather hose plugged so much that I could not blow through it, but when i was removing it i found that one of the the Pclip holding it to the frame was not installed correctly. It failed to capture the hose and it is evident in the photo showing that it is not tight around the hose like the one in front of it.

it is interesting you have so much mayonaise in the breather hose. I wonder if your oil cooler is not allowing the engine to warm up enough. I have not seen anything like that since my 65 chevy belaire 6 that had no compression. When I drain my oil tank I do not see anything that suggests that kind of condensation

Stephen,

Might that help explain the chronic front seal leakage you have earlier reported?

I was getting a lot of condensation BEFORE i put in the cooler and was wondering where the crud was coming from. I think now is was partially because of cold oil hitting the hot engine and pushing that condensate into the tank. SO, I have started heating the oil before starting the engine and get far less crud in the system, but I had never removed that hose before and that sludgy yellow crud apparently has settled in the low hanging factory loop in the line. Now the line is plugged and I will heat it up to see what might come out.

I am running the engine oil temps at 183f. It takes 6 miles of 50mph to get there before the oil cooler kick in.

My thoughts exactly. I cannot wait to get it all back together and then cleanout the cam belt area and run it to see what happens. Another fellow locally has a chronic leak on the rear crank pinion seal which could be from the same issue and his M3W is stock 2018.

Have you checked your compression? You might also do a leak down test.

[quote=
I am running the engine oil temps at 183f. It takes 6 miles of 50mph to get there before the oil cooler kick in.
[/quote]

My reading on the subject of oil temp is you want your fully hot running temp to be in the 220-260F range. Below 220 you don't get full vaporization of condensed water.

To eliminate the low loop in the vent line, I moved the vent line fitting from the low position used by MMC to the high position as used by some of the custom bike builders so the hose is always self draining.

Not a great picture, but you can see the vent line position with 90 degree fitting to the upper right of the left (in the photo) driving light.

Steve, was that the allen plug in the upper left side of the case that you used? Did you bore i ou to a larger size to get AN fitting on i?