Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Rectifier issue?

at the end the M3W is not a racing car ... ;-) If you are really searching for performance you need to move to a modern 120/70 R19 motorcycle tyre , with all its dis/advantages ...

They look very 'old scool' and I found that they are have a little more grip compared to the originals.

Thorsten

One of my lockdown projects is to relocate my rectifier and at the same time make it easier to swap it out with the spare HD unit that I’ve been carrying with me for a few years now.

This would be made easier if the ‘long lead’ was fitted with an in-line connector in the vicinity of the multiway connector. I understand that the long lead carries quite a high current so ideally would remain as a single conductor all the way to the red post (in front of the oil tank) but having an inline connector would make swapping out the unit more straight forward.

So, has anyone got a recommendation for a suitable high-current inline connector? Or should I leave well alone and just accept that it’s always going to be a fiddle to swap it out at the roadside?

I simply used a very butch connector block (the brass thing with screws, encased in plastic) and then used protective shrink-wrap to keep the elements out and the electrons safe inside. Works a treat and will make it much easier the next time I need to swap it out on the road. Despite changing to a Harley version many years ago, that itself blew up last summer, so having an H-D version fitted doesn't make your electrics invincible, but they are soooo much better without the OE unit :-)

+1👍

Last time I fitted a new rectifier I ran the long lead in its own flexi-conduit up to the terminal and held the conduit in place with a very few tie wraps arranged on the outside of all the other cables so that it would be easy to remove or even just cut at a convenient point and since I already had another identical rectifier as a spare, I fitted it all up with its own conduit and the correct size ring terminal and wrapped it up in a kit with some new tie wraps and even spare mounting screws. Not that I would ever drop any washers or small nuts while working at the side of the road....

To be fair the CE rectifier has been much more reliable since the change to the chassis mount rather than the engine mount position of the early cars. The HD item is much cheaper if you need a replacement or spare. I would say it is a side of the road job just to thread the long lead up to the battery terminal and use a few cable ties if you need to replace it and then do it properly later on. You do need to fit a larger ring tag on the end of the long cable though.

Thanks for the responses. Having given it some thought, I think I'm going to follow Calum's method. The long lead doesn't really have that far to go and, in any case, if I go to the trouble of carrying a pre-configured spare (like Calum does) then I'll almost certainly never have to use it anyway. I'm basing this on experience gained carrying an unused inner tube / cam belt kit / lithium-ion jump-starter battery / throttle cable etc, etc, etc. Although, it is interesting to hear that Phil has managed to destroy an indestructible H-D rectifier (which is what I'm planning to use) so I guess carrying a spare would still be prudent.

I am considering doing same ( swapping Morgan fitted rectifier for the ledgendary H-D one ) .
Could you document the project please Andy?
Much appreciated.

Can do, but it will be a pretty short document! I'm planning to relocate the regulator to the bodywork just aft of the n/s suspension à la Phil Bleazey. The H-D unit is more compact than the CE one so will fit nicely in this location and it keeps the wiring neatly tucked away behind the engine. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks Andy it's wiring side / altering connectors I am not sure about , being a metal basher the hardware is not an issue for me but all info very welcome thank you.