Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Starting - Battery?

Standard Banner 530 30 is L187mm, W128mm, H165mm. Try a search for JMT YTX30-FP Lithium Ion battery, they seem to be easier to get these days. There is a list of batteries that fit in the Alternative Parts List page 6, that is now available from the "M3W resources" link in the stickies at the top of this forum list.

I have found the Banner spec from the Banner 530-03-!2v 30AH as shown in my original 2012 parts book. They are: 300A coldcrank. 187mm L, 128mm W, 165m H. LH Front Negative bolt on post. The only battery I have found with a quick search in France that has a suitable cranking current is over €400. In any case I have found the French storage people have already bought a lead acid replacement for my M3W. I just hope it is not one of the useless Banner batteries. That will make battery #4 since 2012, 2 x Banner and 1 Yuasa. I had hoped the Yuasa might be better in the M3W, since on my Yamaha 700cc (single cylinder) Raptor R quad bike, I only replaced the Yuasa starter battery once in 15 years and the second one was still going strong when it was stolen.

Wilson

I had the JMT. Fits perfectly, has 400A+ cranking power and from memory was c.£200.

As most of these vehicles have energy loss do to things like clocks, etc. even a lithium battery will need an intermittent charge up

Except for the clock function are there any other things that draw power with the ignition OFF?

The blasted immobiliser. I joined Red Leader in fitting a Battery Brain to isolate the battery, setting the trigger level to 11.5.

I was thinking of just putting in a switch on the battery, either great big switch or a relay operated one.

Interestingly I had to boost my Lithium battery after a few weeks. It claimed a charge but not enough to turn the engine over... maybe the wet sumping added too much load? Paralleling my old (and by itself defunct in terms of M3W starting) Banner (technically only 2yrs old, but swapped out last year) got it started.

Possibly I have an "electrical leak" somewhere. Only outstanding electrical issue is that the heated seats havent worked since I put the insides back together again last year... probably I should pull the fuse!

I think it's wise to fit a battery disconnect to all infrequently used machines.

The only downside on a M3W is that any updated settings in the ECU adaptive maps are lost when the power is disconnected. Not a big deal if the machine is stock. But if you have intake/exhaust/cam mods it will take a number of miles for the engine to get back to it's happy place.

A replacement unlocked ECU with merged maps solves this issue, but isn't an absolute requirement.

Older photos, as this was the very first mod I did on my car. Disconnect is on the negative side of the battery. Have since fitted covers to the exposed terminals.

As a matter of interest, with your skills why did you not fit the isolator key under the dashboard rather than having to take the hood off every time?