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Talk Morgan Sage
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Originally Posted by TimB
Maybe be an attempt by the factory to lower the production costs smile


That's shocking if it came out the factoy like that. Looks very home made.


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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TimB Offline OP
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The new solution is also clearly handmade...
Since I had nothing else I could to in the garage I made an online appointment at the DIY market. It was easy to get a new cooper pipe and reduction pieces - funnily enough we use imperial measures for cooper pipes in Germany as well.

What pisses me off (pls excuse my french) is the fact they wanted 50€ plus 200€ deposit if I wanted to use the tool for the press fittings.... It would have taken a few min for the three ends - I would even have paid them a few Euro. But they insisted on the rental process.. Wankers

Now I need to find a friendly plumber that has such a tool.

[Linked Image]

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Tim: you don't have to press fit that.
You can solder that and then you have the perfect collar "bead" for clamping.


Paul

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Tim ..... if you aren't wedded to the look of your hose clips, couldn't you use these ?..... also available in stainless .... they could be tightened with one wire each side of the 'olive' .... they have huge clamping force, and fixed like that would not pull off


[Linked Image]

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Do not forget to remove the gasket when soldering thumbs


Paul

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As Mattmog says ..... aren't these capilliary solder fittings with the solder pre-loaded into the raised rings?? ..... a good clean of the pipe and a run over with a blowtorch and you should be in business.

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No, these are definitely press fittings, I have used for many years as plumber.
But since it is copper you can also solder it.


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Cheers Mattmog .... something I'm not familiar with .... these are the popular 'yorkshire' fittings in the UK ..... look just the same but have the right amount of solder pre-loaded into the raised ring .... just surface clean the pipe, slip it on and run your blowtorch over it .... I don't think that style of press fit fittings are much used in the uk ( I had to google them) .... something new I've learned.


https://www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/en/products/capillaryfittings

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Alright - back in business this weekend.
Our family motto helped: "be friendly when you wanna screw" smile

Solution: Another DIY market that has much better customer service. [Linked Image]

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Update: the new cooper pipe is in and the new hose clamps have a tight fit now. Just did my first test drive and ended up in a sudden hailstorm gloomy
But after close to a year of restoration it was great to be able to start the engine again and give it a short spin.

If some 4/4 CVH owner doing a restore and running into a similar issue reads this thread in future: Go with the clamp that "Image" posted above. Stupid me had a mental "marriage" with the new wide stainless-steel clamps - the ones above would have worked fine I believe.

The solution with the new fittings works as well - but the hose at the end that is connected to the heater matrix above has a tight fit with the bulkhead. So, if you replicate my solution with a new cooper pipe with press-fittings, then add a 90-degree elbow piece at the end facing up. If you use a T-connector that is soldered to the pipe - you should be OK - the difference between the press-fitting and soldered version is a few centimeters. But as the pipe is attached with a bracket to the engine these will be exactly a few centimeters that will cause you grief....

Another advice I can give: If you need to replace or work on the clamps on the hoses beneath the distributor - disconnect the hoses from the carb, heater valve and above the thermostate to get out the pipe including the z-shaped heater bypass piece. It should pretty much look like the hoses and connections I had on my first picture of this post.

With a bit of luck - my next post tomorrow can be found here laugh

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