Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) SSL 5 Link Fit - 2nd generation

I have just finished installation of SSL’s 2nd generation 5 Link rear suspension into my 2010 Roadster Sport, a job that I spread out in bite size chunks over the last three weeks as lock down ‘entertainment’. I know from Peter Ballard (SSL Director) that this is the first occasion that the new production kit has been fitted in any setting (DIY or garage) so there was learning on both sides, which will be carried through into production (very minor changes) and into Peter’s comprehensive fitting instructions. Given that I have not installed the earlier variant, I can’t comment on whether this new version is an easier fit, but I suspect it is if only because the machined alloy axle brackets are much more solid than the earlier fabricated steel ones. For example, centralisation of the axle was straightforward due to the brackets close fit with the trapezoidal saddles under the axle. Most difficult was the removal of the leaf springs, which required a certain amount of fiddling and brute force with close adherence to Peter’s instructions (especially front end first).

Kit wise, installation of the side plates was a bit of a challenge that required some thought. The left-hand side plate was misaligned with the damper hoop holes in the chassis and the front bolt did not line up, which necessitated a bit more ‘fitting’ than expected – not the fault of the SSL kit but a ‘feature’ of Morgan manufacturing. I was given to understand in conversation with one of the dealers who has fitted several of the earlier kits that such misalignment is not unusual. Peter was most helpful throughout and inspected the installation once I had finished – he’s only 10 miles away so easy to arrange.

On the tool front, I used a selection of AF and metric spanners and sockets as well as a digital micrometer and metric Allen keys (8 and 10mm with ½” drive) – many bolts supplied with the kit have Allen heads that screw into helicoils in the alloy brackets and fittings. Also cobalt drills (6 and 8mm), lifting straps, a wooden beam, a torque wrench for final tightening etc, and I had the car on a 2.5 tonne Kwik Lift, purchased for the work and a real bonus now and for future servicing.

I have driven the car a couple of times since finishing the fit and it is a revelation in terms of handling and comfort. The car already had the RS fit at the front, but it still feels much more planted, turn in is better, no axle tramp nor nodding front end and I’m no longer in fear of the many potholes that feature on the roads round here. More importantly Mrs P thinks it is much more comfortable and is now genuinely looking forward to our upcoming trip up the Welsh coast.

Is it a worthwhile upgrade? For me and thus far, absolutely. Having owned a variety of fast cars in my 40+ years of driving including RS Fords, Porsches, a supercharged VX220 and most recently a BMW M4 Competition, I found the leaf spring set up at the rear a bit too wayward for comfort especially with such a high power to weight ratio. The car now feels much more capable and composed, which I think is critical to the enjoyment factor especially for touring. And I managed to fill 3 weeks of what would otherwise have been a particularly dull period in lockdown.

What advice would I offer to others planning to DIY this upgrade – it is readily achievable if you have a reasonable degree of experience but don’t rush, make sure that you have good access around, above and below the car (I tried axle stands but they felt insecure so purchased the Kwik Lift) and factor in time and money (not much money though) to enhance your toolkit as you go. Most importantly, seek advice from Peter as and when you hit the inevitable problems.

Happy to answer any questions and I have no pecuniary interest in SSL!

Chris

Hi Chris , just in the process of ordering the same kit off Dan and peter. Glad to hear it was a successful job.
Sean 3.7 roadster

Thanks for report and great job Chris. Did you find in laterally aligning the rear axle there was a difference in having it true to chassis v rear wings?

It's good to see you've finished it and like the result. I do like those billet axle brackets. But I'm more than happy with the MK1 version in my +4.
Cheers
John

You need to centralise the axle wrt to the chassis to maximise the gap between the side plates and axle brackets. It's a tight fit so doubt there would be any room to compensate for chassis to body lateral misalignment - I've looked at mine and wheel to body gaps are not noticeably different side to side. Fore and aft offers 2 positions dependent on what handbrake arrangement you have.

Chris

Congratulations on persevering with the job, and a great result.

I was also interested in the newer parts, they look more substantial somehow , but having said that I have not experienced any issues with my earlier versions either.

Interesting to learn your comments about the improvements, I feel that the improvement to my +8 is much more in the handling than the comfort perspective. The car turns in so much better, and will follow a line around a corner much more easily. I always felt the torque of the +8 could "bite" you when cornering fast on a less than perfect surface, now it feels much more predictable.

We too use our car for touring , and are scheduled to make for the Highlands of Scotland, just hope the Covid situation will permit the trip.

So do I!