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Joined: Nov 2016
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Great service as ever Simon.
Jads

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Originally Posted by Peter J
From the days when I played with bikes and their brakes, I understand that the pad should bit on most, but not all, of the surface of the disc, about 2/3mm unused each side.
The pad should never, ever, extend above the edge of the disc.

That sounds like excellent practice of course but just in case people get worried about this from looking at their own, page 162 of Dave W’s book refers to Caparo callipers causing a ridge of unworn pad material build up on the outer edges, which needs to be regularly chamfered back! When I read that, I immediately checked my own, and it was certainly true for mine.
Yet another Morgan “thing”.


Doug
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The Astom Martin pads also fit the calipers as SiFab says give the right offset, thank you SiFab we are now sorted.
Mintex MGB 522 pads as fitted to Astom Martin/Volvo

You can see the material offset and the pads are larger.

[Linked Image]DSC_0627 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr
[Linked Image]DSC_0634 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
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Rob

Just a point - how are the 5 hub retaining nuts secured?

They don't appear to have been cente popped after doing them up?

You really really don't want them working loose!

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Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams
Rob

Just a point - how are the 5 hub retaining nuts secured?

They don't appear to have been cente popped after doing them up?

You really really don't want them working loose!

Arwyn


He didn't need to undo them so that's as they left the factory....


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The Nuts are Dot Punched to the bolts so I guess whenever they are removed its new nuts and bolts? As SiFab says they are as factory...Discs had little wear so no need to change just yet...

oh and the little wear was due to grease contamination from the leaking oiler on the king pins...


Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
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Unless you feel the need to renew the nuts and bolts as 'lifed' then a touch on the pop mark with a small drill and they should undo fine .... on reassembly just pop in a different place .... there may be people come on and say change everything, but that's worked fine for me over the years.


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Needs to Get Out More!
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Threadlock was the go-to and included in Haynes manual procedures. Loctite was a popular one with different grades covering basic hold and “ Jesus, pass me the LONG socket bar”.
Repopping is a simple added hold mechanism though. Worth doing.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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